Let's be frank: Like every other "special" or "secret sauce"—this is doctored-up thousand island dressing. Still, you can't beat it on a cheeseburger. Or with French fries. Or tater tots! I like mincing bread-and-butter pickles—as opposed to sweet relish—to cut down on the sweetness. You could take that a step further and swap in sour gherkins. If you want to amp up the smokiness, use a chipotle hot sauce.
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles on the fly, baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., and writing about the history of pie in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's award-winning column, Big Little Recipes (also the cookbook in November 2021!). And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.