This salad has something in common with salade Niçoise, though not in its strictest sense: In his 1972 cookbook La Cuisine du Comté de Nice, the city’s mayor Jacques Medécin lamented the bastardization of the dish, complaining that “all over the world, horrified, I have seen the remains of other people’s meals being served under the name salade Nicoise.” So perhaps it is more accurate to compare it to the sandwich pan bagnat, also often found in Nice, without the bread (though nobody is stopping you from having it with this salad). —Emma Alpern
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