Combine the yogurt, mayo, and miso in a bowl. Stir with a fork until smooth. Add the buttermilk and stir again. Add the rest of the ingredients. Adjust to taste as needed: More vinegar for pucker and thinness. More mayo or yogurt for richness and thickness. More dijon and cayenne for kick. And on and on. Chill before serving.
Emma was the food editor at Food52. She created the award-winning column, Big Little Recipes, and turned it into a cookbook in 2021. These days, she's a senior editor at Bon Appétit, leading digital cooking coverage. Say hello on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.