Combine the yogurt, mayo, and miso in a bowl. Stir with a fork until smooth. Add the buttermilk and stir again. Add the rest of the ingredients. Adjust to taste as needed: More vinegar for pucker and thinness. More mayo or yogurt for richness and thickness. More dijon and cayenne for kick. And on and on. Chill before serving.
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing articles about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.