Corn, when grilled like this, gets chewy and inexplicably sweeter. Basil adds a floral note. But the real clincher is the masochistic drizzle of ranch dressing (especially Hidden "Vale/Dell/Glen/Geologic Window"), which picks everything up and works surprisingly well with the cheesy corn. —Eric Kim
Roll out each ball of pizza dough into about 8-inch rounds. (I like to do this with my hands, holding the dough by the edges and letting it hang down, i.e. letting gravity do the work, rotating and stretching until thin all the way around.) For each round, brush both sides lightly with the olive oil. Par-cook on the grill, about 60 seconds per side.
Top with (in this order): a thin layer of ranch dressing (about 1 tablespoon each), mozzarella, and then corn. Grill again, covered, until the cheese is melted and the dough is cooked through.
Off the grill, garnish with the fresh basil, ricotta salata, and a zig-zag drizzle of ranch.
Eric Kim is the Table for One columnist at Food52. Formerly the managing editor at Food Network and a PhD candidate in literature at Columbia University, he is currently working on his first cookbook, to be published by Clarkson Potter in Spring 2022. His favorite writers are William Faulkner, John Steinbeck, and Ernest Hemingway, but his hero is Nigella Lawson. You can find his bylines at Saveur, Bon Appétit, and The New York Times and follow him on Twitter @ericjoonho. Born and raised in Georgia, Eric lives in a tiny shoebox in Manhattan with his dog, Quentin "Q" Compson.