My tamagoyaki–inspired scrambled eggs are, as ever, the clumsy home cook's take on those French soft-scrambled eggs where you have to start from a cold pan with cubes of butter and stir, low and slow, risotto-style—except mine are much faster and taste like tamago nigiri. You know the one? That sweet omelet with the rice underneath, wrapped around the middle with nori like a Band-Aid? —Eric Kim
Whisk together the eggs, garlic, soy sauce, and sugar.
Starting from a cold pan over medium-low heat, add the sesame oil, then the egg mixture. With a rubber spatula, stir unoccasionally so you end up with large curds, but DO stir so the eggs cook slowly and evenly. Just be sure to undercook them (they'll carryover cook off the heat). This step will likely take around 2 to 3 minutes, depending on your stove.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. (I like to eat this with white rice and roasted seaweed snack.)
Eric Kim is the Table for One columnist at Food52. Formerly the managing editor at Food Network and a PhD candidate in literature at Columbia University, he is currently working on his first cookbook, to be published by Clarkson Potter in Spring 2022. His favorite writers are William Faulkner, John Steinbeck, and Ernest Hemingway, but his hero is Nigella Lawson. You can find his bylines at Saveur, Bon Appétit, and The New York Times and follow him on Twitter @ericjoonho. Born and raised in Georgia, Eric lives in a tiny shoebox in Manhattan with his dog, Quentin "Q" Compson.