A sweet-savory jam that you can—and should—make in the middle of winter. Canned, diced tomatoes star here, yielding a chunky texture that reminds me of a rustic chutney. If you want to skip the vinegar, well, don’t! Just like the salt, it helps balance the sweetness, making all the flavors pop.
Set a large (roughly 12-inch) skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil, then chopped onion. Season with a pinch of salt. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 10 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, sugar, and vinegar. Stir. Adjust the heat as needed to keep at a steady simmer and cook, stirring often, until the syrup is thick and dragging a spoon along the pan leaves a distinct trail (about 25 minutes). Transfer to a heat-proof container and refrigerate to cool completely.
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing articles about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.