Rose Levy Beranbaum's Molasses Sugar Butter Cookies Recipe on Food52

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Rose Levy Beranbaum's Molasses Sugar Butter Cookies

December 25, 2020
20 Ratings
Photo by Kristen Miglore
Author Notes

Rose Levy Beranbaum received a recipe that made a molasses cookie with an ideal chewy-crisp texture—but because it called for shortening, it lacked the rich, full oomph of butter. Simply swapping butter for shortening isn’t always as straightforward as it seems: While shortening is all fat, American-style butter typically has 15% water. With extra moisture, the chew fades, the handsome cracks disappear. Rose simply bubbled the extra water away on the stovetop, as you do when you’re clarifying butter. Then, while she was at it, she kept going to brown the milk solids and make brown butter, because there are very few instances where this isn’t an improvement. Adapted slightly from Rose's Baking Basics (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2018). —Genius Recipes

Watch This Recipe
Rose Levy Beranbaum's Molasses Sugar Butter Cookies
  • Prep time 1 hour 30 minutes
  • Cook time 30 minutes
  • Makes twenty-four 2 3/4-inch cookies
Ingredients
  • 150 grams or 10 1/2 tablespoons (1 stick plus 2 1/2 tablespoons) unsalted butter
  • 38 grams or 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (35 ml) or 3/4 large egg
  • 204 grams or 1 3/4 cups minus 1 tablespoon (lightly spooned into the cup and leveled off) bleached all-purpose flour
  • 8.2 grams or 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 3/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 3/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 3/8 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 125 grams or 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine sugar
  • 60 grams or 3 tablespoons (45 ml) light molasses, preferably Grandma’s brand
  • 24 grams or 2 tablespoons superfine sugar, for rolling the dough balls (see Baking Pearls)
In This Recipe
Directions
  1. CLARIFY AND BROWN THE BUTTER: Have ready by the cooktop a 1 cup glass measure with a spout. In a small heavy saucepan, on very low heat, melt the butter, stirring often with a silicone spatula. Raise the heat to low and boil, stirring constantly, until the milk solids on the spatula become a deep brown. Immediately pour the butter into the glass measure, scraping in the browned solids as well. Allow the browned butter to cool to room temperature, or no higher than 80°F/27°C (see Baking Pearls, below).
  2. Into another 1 cup measure with a spout or a small bowl, weigh or measure the egg. Cover with plastic wrap.
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cloves, and ginger.
  4. MAKE THE DOUGH: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, mix the browned butter with its solids, the sugar, molasses, and egg on low speed for 1 minute.
  5. Add the flour mixture. Start mixing on the lowest speed to moisten the flour. Raise the speed to low and beat for 30 seconds.
  6. Scrape the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and divide it in half (about 281 grams each). Wrap each piece in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour, or until firm enough to handle (see Baking Pearls).
  7. PREHEAT THE OVEN: Thirty minutes or longer before baking, set an oven rack at the middle level. Set the oven at 375°F/190°C.
  8. ROLL THE DOUGH INTO BALLS: In a small bowl or large custard cup, place the sugar for rolling the dough balls. Remove one piece of dough from the refrigerator.
  9. Measure the dough into a 1 1/2-inch diameter cookie scoop and level it off with a small metal spatula, or scoop out a heaping tablespoon (23 grams). You will get 12 pieces of dough. Roll each piece in the palms of your hands to form a 1¼ inch ball.
  10. Roll each dough ball around in the bowl of sugar to coat it well. Set the dough balls a minimum of 1 1/2 inches apart on a cookie sheet.
  11. BAKE THE COOKIES: Bake for 4 minutes. For even baking, rotate the cookie sheet halfway around. Continue baking for 4 to 6 minutes. Cracks will appear on the surface, but the inside will look slightly underbaked. When gently pressed with a fingertip, the cookies should still feel soft in the middle. (Baking longer will result in a darker looking and crisper cookie throughout.)
  12. COOL THE COOKIES: Set the cookie sheet on a wire rack and let the cookies cool for 3 to 5 minutes, until firm enough to transfer to a wire rack for cooling. Use a thin pancake turner to transfer the cookies to another wire rack. They will firm up as they cool, with a crisp surface and soft chewy interior. Shape, bake, and cool the second batch.
  13. STORE AIRTIGHT: room temperature, 7 days; refrigerated, 2 weeks; frozen, 3 months.
  14. BAKING PEARLS: If the browned butter is used at a higher temperature than 80°F/27°C, the cookies will not expand to 2 3/4 inches and will not form cracks. They will also require another 2 minutes of baking.
  15. It is essential to clarify the butter for these cookies, because just melting the butter will result in a thinner cookie that doesn’t bake through. Use grade AA butter; lower-quality butter (containing more water) will result in a lesser amount of browned butter. You will need a total of 110 grams/½ cup plus 1 tablespoon/133 ml browned butter.
  16. Superfine sugar will give the finest, most even crunch to the surface of the cookies, but if desired, turbinado sugar can be used instead for more sparkle.
  17. Refrigerating half the dough while you shape the first batch keeps the remaining dough cool, which prevents the baking soda from activating and ensures that the cookies will be uniform in size and shape. The time it takes to roll the remaining twelve dough balls is about the same as it takes to bake the first batch.
  18. The raw dough freezes nicely; however, if the dough is not baked on the same day as mixing, the cookies will be slightly larger, flatter, and darker in color.

See what other Food52ers are saying.

  • Alicja Lei
    Alicja Lei
  • CArol Goodbar
    CArol Goodbar
  • Rose Levy Beranbaum
    Rose Levy Beranbaum
  • Mkilfoyle
    Mkilfoyle
  • Janet Blum
    Janet Blum
Genius Recipes

Recipe by: Genius Recipes

    44 Reviews

    LiliD December 22, 2019
    Anyone else have problems with these cookies over-browning/burning on the bottom? I feel the superfine sugar may be the culprit. Only cooked them 8-minutes, in a correct temperature oven. Wonder if the correct temperature should be 350?
     
    Alicja L. December 10, 2019
    Help! Followed the recipe to the .2 gram and when they baked, they didn’t really flatten. They’re probably about a cm thick. And I’d say they are more doughy than chewy. I flattened the second batch and baked a bit longer but that just made the crackles happen on the sides but remained the same thickness and texture. Any advice or where I went wrong?
     
    Alicja L. December 10, 2019
    Sorry the one substitution was that I used 30g black strap and 30g corn syrup. I live in Iceland and black strap is the only molasses I could get my hands on!
     
    CArol G. December 10, 2019
    I rolled mine to 1/4 inch and cut out. Baked until lightly browned and they were perfect.
     
    Christina M. December 10, 2019
    I'm no expert, but when I tried baking US recipes in France, I had problems with the local flour being "softer" (less protein content maybe?) than US all-purpose flour. Maybe that could affect the texture besides the sub of corn syrup/molasses? It definitely affected the brownies that I would try to bake for people. The results were rather gooey.
     
    Rose L. December 16, 2019
    Alicja, it could be the substitution but more likely the type of flour. did you use unbleached flour per chance?
     
    CArol G. December 16, 2019
    I used unbleached flour.
     
    Alicja L. December 17, 2019
    I did use use unbleached flour. I don’t know if they have bleached here. Is there an adjustment I could make?
    In your notes you mentioned that if you don’t bake the same day, they will end up being flatter....was thinking if I baked the next day it the cookie would meet in the middle?
     
    Rose L. December 17, 2019
    Alicja, it could be the brand of unbleached flour--the protein content does vary a great deal. if not that then it's the molasses substitution.
     
    Christina M. December 17, 2019
    Alicja, this may not be helpful but David Lebovitz has a blog entry about substituting French ingredients in American recipes ("Ingredients for American Baking in Paris" is title). AND from there, one of the links that still works is from Weekend Bakery ("Understanding Flour Types") with a chart about various flours in Europe, UK, and US and protein content. (I think the focus of this blog is bread baking.) Of course, Iceland is not on this chart. But maybe there is a blogger or someone more local who has written about the flour sold in Iceland and protein content. Here in US, bread flour has more protein in it than all-purpose. If the protein content is the problem, perhaps adding some bread flour to your local all-purpose? Finally, in David Lebovitz blog entry, he also writes about substitutes for molasses. He suggests adding some honey to the black-strap that is available in France. Here is my final thought, as I think back on my brownie mess: I found a French recipe for "brownies" and then I worked backward to get the brownies that I wanted. So you might find a local recipe for a molasses crinkle cookie and adapt it to Rose's: brown the butter, match the spices, try your sub for mild molasses, and Rose's techniques for mixing, etc. I wish you luck and apologies if none of this is helpful!
     
    Alicja L. December 25, 2019
    Thank you so much for this info!! I definitely went straight to David’s blog! Merry Christmas!
     
    Christina M. October 25, 2019
    Great cookie! The precise instructions make the recipe very easy to double. My family's favorite molasses cookie.
     
    Rose L. October 25, 2019
    thank you Christina--you've made me so happy!
     
    CArol G. October 17, 2019
    Today I tried this recipe and LOVE the cookie. I rolled it 1/4 in thick and used a round cutter then sprinkled with sanding sugar, everything I hoped for!
     
    Rose L. October 25, 2019
    thank you Carol--so delighted by your feedback!
     
    Rose L. February 19, 2019
    Here's an update: i felt so bad about the comments re the 3/4 egg that i decided to test it with 1 egg. that said, 1 egg can vary in size and weight so it's still a good idea to weigh or at least measure it. anyway it worked just fine--cracks that we all love. but here's some other interesting news. i made two batches. the second batch dough had 30 minutes extra at room temperature before baking because it had to be shaped and wait to for the first batch to come out and it was significantly darker in color than the first batch. this is due to the baking soda. otherwise they tasted the same but just thought you'd like to know this. and if you're wondering why i used 3/4 egg in the first place, it's because i was trying to be true to the original recipe which used crisco and was for a larger batch so no partial eggs. i thought it would have the added benefit of controlling the size of the eggs because they vary so much within each carton. also the reason i clarify the butter is because the original using crisco, which had such a great texture did not contain water the way butter does ie crisco is 100% fat and butter is not. if anyone is not pleased with the flavor of the brown butter, i would recommend just clarifying it til the milk solids are pale golden. that's it folks!
     
    Mkilfoyle February 1, 2019
    Who wrote this recipe? It reads like it was translated from a foreign language. If I was a new baker and didn't know who Rosy was I would never try this. 3/4 of an egg? honestly... a lot of nonsense direction. I know baking requires exactness but this is a cookie recipe not a fine dessert. Mine go in the oven shortly, I'll let you know how they turn out...
     
    Mkilfoyle February 1, 2019
    Just took my first batch out and even with a whole egg they came out tasty and look great.. I would have to say that I think the brown butter detracts from the spices in the cookie and maybe isn't necessary. I felt like it confuses the cookie. Brown butter is a great flavor and spice is wonderful but together the mouth feel is questionable.
     
    Jaik December 31, 2018
    How exactly is one supposed to get 3/4 of a large egg?? Is it to be scrambled first?
     
    Nancy M. January 1, 2019
    By cracking an egg into a small bowl and removing a bit of the white, as she demonstrates in the video.
     
    Janet B. December 28, 2018
    Though I am an ace cooking nearly anything else from recipes, I admit I am a novice baker. I was told some time ago that measuring precisely for baked goods was critical as so much depends upon chemical reactions. This recipe calls for the Baking Soda, (obviously a critical element for chemical reactions,) to weigh 8.2 g or measure 1 1/2 tsp. I am stumped. A leveled tsp is less than 3 grams. Please, if these numbers are written as you intended, which ought I to use, 8.2 g or 1 1/2 tsp.
     
    Seashell January 2, 2019
    I haven’t seen anyone reply to you. I am curious too! Let me know if you received/found an answer to your question. I am dying to know myself as I haven’t tried this recipe myself as of yet. Thanks! [email protected]
     
    Kristen M. January 2, 2019
    Hi Janet and Seashell—when it comes to a Rose Levy Beranbaum recipe (or other trusted recipe source), going with the grams is always safest and most convenient (fewer dishes!). The maddening thing about measuring spoons and cups is that they can vary by brand, which could explain why your baking soda is weighing less than hers. Or perhaps your scale isn't calibrated—here's how to check: https://food52.com/blog/11337-how-to-check-the-accuracy-of-your-kitchen-scale If you ever want to double-check a weight that isn't matching a volume, King Arthur has ingredient weight charts, as Rose has in her books—you can see here that KA shows 1/2 teaspoon at 3 grams, so the closest measurement that Rose's 8.2 grams could translate to is 1 1/2 teaspoons. Hope this is helpful!
     
    Kristen M. January 2, 2019
    Oops, forgot to include the link to King Arthur: https://www.kingarthurflour.com/learn/ingredient-weight-chart.html
     
    Janet B. January 3, 2019
    Thanks in particular for the King Arthur chart. I used a much more compact conversion chart to check against the measurements I was seeing on my scale. Let me begin by saying 2 important things: this KA chart demonstrates abundantly there is more to measurement than dry vs wet. The range of weights just in the initial grouping of differing sorts of flour is quite boggling. 2nd the difference alone between baking soda and baking powder is daunting. The chart I used was basically wet and dry, and I used the shortcut they had for "flour" (at this point I can see how laughable that is,) to establish how much a tsp of baking soda ought to weigh. As I cannot adjust my scale (aside from 0/tare and mode,), I operate on the assumption that weighing everything I use on this scale creates internal consistency (at the very least.) So as it is a given that a cup of water weighs 8 oz, and on my scale 8oz doesn't hit the mark precisely on a liquid measuring cup, and the variance is about 3% compared to the cup of water on on a scale with dead-on NASA level of accuracy, then everything I use and weigh will be off to the same degree, so the ratios remain correct.
     
    Seashell January 3, 2019
    Very, very interesting!!
     
    Mkilfoyle February 1, 2019
    I thought this recipe was very confusing. 1 and 3/4C. of flour was way over the gram amount so I stuck to that number. I used 1-1/2 baking soda but I feel it may have been too much. I think I am tasting it in the cookie. You rarely see more than 1t. in a recipe. I felt this recipe was not proofed as written.
     
    Jessica December 16, 2018
    I made this with dark molasses (not blackstrap) and granulated sugar (couldn't find either in stores around me) and they still turned out great! :) FYI, the butter took a long time to come to temperature for me (at least 45 minutes).
     
    jabba9 December 15, 2018
    Stunningly great cookies. I live at 8500 feet and no matter what, my cookies turn out crisp. Until now! Hoping it's the brown butter secret (removing water from the butter).

    Thanks!
     
    Sanjana December 12, 2018
    Quick question on the butter. Is it 150 g before or after browning? If after, how much should the weight be?

    Cheers!
     
    Sanjana December 12, 2018
    Clearly didnt read the notes. Thanks!
     
    Barbara December 11, 2018
    These were delicious I weighed all ingredients, but I think that next time I will measure the baking soda because my scale doesn’t do fractions of grams. They turned out picture perfect as well as being wonderfully complex and delicate in flavor.
     
    andi December 9, 2018
    Is it possible to make the dough with a food processor if you don't have a stand mixer?
     
    Kristen M. December 10, 2018
    I haven't tried it myself but I think that should work fine, especially since you're not going for a fluffy creamed butter/sugar mixture here (the food processor tends to make denser creamed mixtures than a stand or hand mixer would).
     
    Olivia G. December 4, 2018
    These cookies are amazing! I've only just taken the first batch out of the oven and waited about 5 minutes before tasting. Still warm they are crispy but chewy and absolutely perfect. Thanks so much for the recipe!
     
    Shel December 3, 2018
    I’m confused and curious about the baking soda refrigerator instruction because while baking powder is heat activated, baking soda isn’t, I thought. I thought bicarbonate of soda is only acid activated.
     
    Rose L. December 4, 2018
    Shel, flour contains a small amount of acidity and moisture which causes the baking soda to activate slightly. baking soda added to a recipe always results in more browning. i wondering this myself many years ago and researched it. it never occurred to me that flour, which seems dry, might indeed have moisture locked into it so to speak.
     
    Gammy December 2, 2018
    These look delicious! Is it possible to incrementally increase all the ingredients by 1.333x to be able to use the entire large egg rather than the 3/4? The spices would be a guesstimate, but I think with all other measurements in grams everything else would scale up nicely and you would end up with 30 cookies instead of 25.
     
    Rose L. December 4, 2018
    absolutely yes! i didn't do that only because i thought people would freak out to see odd numerical amounts! bravo for the thought!
     
    Nancy H. December 1, 2018
    just had my first taste and they are wonderful! Followed your recipe pretty much to the letter and your description of crisp outside, chewy inside was bang on! Thanks Rose! Will check out your book for sure!
     
    samanthaalison November 29, 2018
    Not a comment about the recipe, but about the format. Because the main image is a video, when I use the "Pin It" button I don't get an option that actually shows the cookies.
     
    Sandra November 29, 2018
    The button to print doesn’t work.
     
    Candy S. November 29, 2018
    I just selected the Print button and it worked just fine.
     
    Kristen M. November 30, 2018
    Thanks for noting this, Samantha! I'll share with our engineering team. There are still some recipe photo behind the scenes (they're what will show up in recipe search and other pages on the site), so hopefully there will be a good way to make this recipe more Pin-able!