These enchiladas are especially wonderful for a cozy group of friends because, like all casseroles, you can assemble them early in the day or even a day before and just pop them into the oven when you’re having drinks. Even though it may be tempting to skip the tortilla-frying step, please don’t. Heating up the tortillas and coating them with a little oil makes them not only more pliable and easier to roll but also keeps them from falling apart once they’re covered in sauce. The oil is almost like a little raincoat that protects them. If you’re on a health kick, you can skip the tortillas and use blanched collard green or Swiss chard leaves as wrappers (I do that version for Grace and me sometimes). Lastly, if you are cooking these for children or anyone who can’t tolerate spice, feel free to swap in a poblano chile for the jalapeño (it’s much milder), or just omit the fresh chile all together.
Reprinted from Now & Again by Julia Turshen, with permission by Chronicle Books, 2018. —Julia Turshen