This frittata was born out of a desire for quiche, but no desire to make crust. The potatoes are sautéed until they begin to soften and brown, then you mash them into the base of the pan. The result is a coarse texture that browns beautifully, creating a sort of “crust” for the egg mixture on bottom. If you can’t find ramps, you can substitute 2 leeks, but add a few extra minutes of sautéing time before adding the eggs. Best served with a large, vinegary salad. —Erin McDowell
Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat the olive oil and butter in a 9-inch oven-safe sauté pan over medium heat. Add the potatoes in an even layer, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and spread back into an even layer. Continue to cook undisturbed for several minutes, then stirring to redistribute, until the potatoes begin to soften and brown, 15 to 17 minutes total.
The potatoes should be soft enough that they may start to come apart as you stir them (that’s okay). Use your stirring utensil to coarsely mash the potatoes once they are soft enough, then add the ramps and sauté until they soften, about 2 minutes. Spread the mixture into an even layer in the base of the pan, and keep the heat on medium-low.
Whip the eggs in a medium bowl until they are fairly frothy—don’t just whisk to combine, really whip 'em up a bit! Season the egg mixture with salt and pepper. Pour the egg into the sauté pan, and leave undisturbed for 2 minutes.
Sprinkle the Boursin (or goat cheese) all over the surface of the frittata, then sprinkle the cheddar evenly over the surface.
Transfer to the oven and bake until the eggs are set, 10 to 12 minutes. If desired, turn on the broiler to help get the cheese on top even more brown for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.
I always carry three kinds of hot sauce in my purse. I have a soft spot for making people their favorite dessert, especially if it's pie. My first cookbook, The Fearless Baker, is out on October 24, 2017.