No self-respecting Parisian buys out of season, not even an American-born one, and so I use jarred. As a recent organ recipient, I omit saturated fat and salt and reduce the recipe to be eaten within 24 hours. Now we’re living on the edge.
Cook for roughly 45 minutes, stirring intermittently between tucking-in the kid. The tomato sauce separates slightly into rich lava with bright, earthy flavor. The solo diner nixes the pasta and applies sauce generously to toast. Delicious. —Ellen