Recipe adapted from Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce with Onions and Butter. I did not radically change the recipe. It is so basic it would be easy to overwhelm its simple character with multiple herbs, spices, meats, etc. I limited modifications mostly to accentuating the onion flavor through the use of sweet onions, chives, and fresh ramp pasta noodles. Anchovy paste boosted the umami flavor, adding depth to the sauce. —Stephen Johnson
Place tomatoes in a large saucepan, break up coarsely with your hands or a wooden spoon. Add onion quarters, butter, wine, white pepper, and anchovy paste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Remove onion, salt sauce to taste, a pinch at a time.
Boil salted water for pasta. Place fresh pasta in boiling water and wait for it to come back to a boil. Boil 2 ½-3 minutes. Drain. Return noodles to the empty pan, toss quickly to evaporate most of the water on the noodles.
Plate the noodles immediately (approximately 6-8 servings). Ladle 2-3 ounces of sauce per individual serving of pasta.
Grate over Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and garnish with diced chives.