Psst. The collar is secretly the best part of the salmon. It's succulent, spoon-tender, and has all the flavorful fats of salmon belly, making it the most underrated cut of fish out there. This simple, Japanese-inspired salt-grilled (shioyaki) recipe lets the collar meat speak for itself, with just a touch of aroma and acidity from the mirin and lemon juice to help it shine. The raw, grated daikon may seem like a random addition, but its fresh bitterness cuts through the fattiness of the salmon in the most pleasurable way. —Yi Jun Loh
Using a brush, slather the salmon collar with mirin. Then, season both sides of the collar with salt, and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. During this time, heat your grill or griddle pan up to temperature. You want it just below smoking-hot. (Alternatively, you can roast the salmon in the oven. If you’re going this route, preheat your oven to 450°F.)
Pat dry the salmon collar with a paper towel, and place it down on the grill skin-side down. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin has nice bits of char to it, and the sides begin to turn a cooked orange. Then, flip it over and grill for another 1 to 2 minutes. (If you’re using an oven, place the salmon on a baking tray, skin-side up, and cook 12 minutes. Depending on the size of the collar, it might go for longer.)
As the salmon is cooking, finely grate the daikon radish. Serve the salmon hot off the grill, with a slice of lemon and a mound of grated daikon on the side.