When warmed in butter, raisins grow plump and their flavor goes from cloying and tannic to gently sweet. Not quite jammy, yet no longer tough and chewy, the raisins become a whole new condiment something like a conserve, but far less work. Just imagine those warm pieces of fruit over creamy ricotta and crunchy toast, popping in your mouth, butter dripping down your chin. If you don’t like raisins, then dried cranberries, blueberries, and cherries all work beautifully here. Dates, prunes, and apricots work, too, though you’ll want to give them a rough chop first as they’re a big larger than your average raisin. —Rebecca Firkser
extra-virgin olive oil
grated fresh ginger
(2-inch) pieces orange zest, sliced with a vegetable peeler
dried currants, or any other small dried fruit
Melt butter with olive oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add ginger and orange zest and let sizzle for 10 seconds.
Add the dried fruit to the pan and cook until fruit is warmed through, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Pick out orange zest if you don’t want to eat it (but doesn’t it look pretty left in?).
Meanwhile, toast bread to your desired crunchiness and let cool slightly.
Slather each piece of toast with ricotta, then spoon on buttery raisins, making sure to get some of the juice on each piece. Top with a shower of flaky sea salt and a few grinds of black pepper.