Squash Panzanella With Bagna Cauda

Author Notes

When I think of panzanella, the Tuscan classic, I think of big chunks of toasted bread, soaking up the juices of summer tomatoes, with a ton of herbs. I think of eating while basking in the golden rays and heat and humidity of late summer.

But, a good bread salad doesn’t need to be packed away with the bathing suits as soon as the weather turns brisker. In fact, I actually prefer an autumnal, warm panzanella with any variety of root vegetables and squash, plus the hearty greens that can withstand the first frosts of fall. The make-up of vegetables is not terribly important. See this salad as an outlet for the random carrot and half sweet potato that inevitably end up in the crisper.

When roasting vegetables, cut them larger than you might think. Two reasons for this: One, the larger the cut, the longer the vegetables take to cook, allowing for more caramelization. The flavor is richer and that textural contrast between a crispy exterior and creamy interior is more pronounced. (If you have a convection function on your oven, it makes achieving that crunchy exoskeleton even easier.) Two, by cutting the vegetables larger, they don’t get a short shrift in the salad, because each bite has more of that individual flavor. Like a great play, it’s about the chorus, not just the star.

Bagna cauda—a warm Piedmontese dressing traditionally served with raw vegetables—brings everything together. I learned this dish from my mentor Skye Gyngell. I can’t even remember how it was featured in her kitchen, but I remember the first time I smelled it—wafts of garlic and butter, with the umami underpinning of anchovy and rosemary. Every time I make it, someone, be it a fellow line cook or dinner guest, walks in and says, “What is that amazing smell?” And I smile and say, “Bagna cauda, darling,” the way Skye said it to me over 10 years ago.

The dressing can be made in advance and held in the fridge for a good long time (at least a week but probably more in my house); just rewarm it to serve. To that point, please note that the dressing must be served warm, otherwise the butter will congeal, which is not the most pleasant mouthfeel.

This dish would be welcome at any holiday. It regularly shows up on my day-after-Thanksgiving table, as there’s usually an overabundance of stuffing croutons and random vegetables in the house, and everyone is feeling the need for a bit more salad, even if it is made of bread. —abraberens

Test Kitchen Notes

Every month, in Eat Your Vegetables, chef, Ruffage cookbook author, and former farmer Abra Berens shares a seasonal recipe that puts vegetables front and center (where they should be!). Missed an installment? Head here to catch up. —The Editors