Uyghur Lamb Rice Pilaf

Author Notes

When my Han Chinese parents were growing up in Xinjiang, the inclusive, diverse spirit of the Silk Road was still alive. The Silk Road was a trade route that brought silk, fur, spices, and different religious ideologies to the Holy Roman Empire. The route began in southeastern China and wound its way up through ancient Constantinople, all the way west to Rome, then back east again. When the Manchus reconquered this contested area in the 1800s, they named it aptly: Xinjiang means “new frontier.” Xinjiang borders six Central Asian countries and has a long history of being conquered, lost, and reconquered by everybody from the Turks and the Mongols to the Uyghurs.

Right now, the Hans hold the “new frontier.” Civilizations once built on trading horses, silks, and furs now erect skyscrapers. Uyghurs are being pushed out, and since 2001, China has succeeded in suppressing this population by any means necessary.

Before this was the political reality, however, my family feasted on big plates of spiced chicken and lamb from the shish kebab carts on every corner, and they still reminisce about the region's bagel-like naan. No dish symbolizes this former melting pot more than “grabbing” lamb rice pilaf, named for the Uyghur tradition of eating communally with one's hands. The peppercorns are from Szechuan, the lamb comes from a black-headed breed in the Tarim Basin, and the pilaf-style cooking technique has roots in Turkey.

Every Han and Uyghur household in Xinjiang masters some variation of this hearty, comforting lamb rice pilaf recipe. Even with the complicated, deep-rooted conflict occurring in Xinjiang today, Hans and Uyghurs alike still sit down to the same delicious dish, best paired with an ice-cold Wusu beer.

Lamb ribs are ideal for this dish because they have the perfect amount of fat, and meat on the bone holds the most flavor when braising. However, lamb shoulder, flank, or leg would also work. If you use ribs, keep the meat on the bone and have the butcher chop them up into 2- or 3-inch pieces. My family uses jasmine rice because we are Han Chinese, so that’s what I prefer it this dish; the chewy texture is distinct from normal basmati rice pilafs and biryanis. The carrots should be cut into pieces "the length of your little finger and half the width." —Clara Wang

Test Kitchen Notes

The salt in the dish should be coming from the braising liquid, so salt the braising liquid liberally when braising the meat, and taste the stock after the meat is cooked and before you pour into the rice to ensure balanced seasoning. —The Editors