Heirloom Recipes

Ruthie's Tomato Soup Cake

By • March 10, 2014 • 48 Comments

Every other week, we’re unearthing Heirloom Recipes -- dishes that have made their way from one generation's kitchen to the next.

Today: Food52 Assistant Editor Marian Bull shares her grandmother's recipe for a spice cake with a not-so-secret ingredient. 

Tomato Soup Cake on Food52

I was supposed to find a picture of my grandmother roughly five weeks ago. 

I never got around to it, until a few days back, when I frantically emailed an aunt and an uncle asking for an image, any image, of their mother.

What I received was a photo of my grandmother Ruthie, lounging on a beach, somewhere on Boston's North Shore. Her mouth is big, like mine. She's wearing a killer pair of sunglasses, and she's clearly having the most fun. The photo isn't as elegant or as clear as I was hoping for, but it's all I have, so it will have to do. 

Ruthie on Food52

I leave things until the last minute; I get this from my lovely mother. Who, in turn, got much of her charm and compassion and freakish capacity for unconditional love from her mother, Ruthie. She died before I was born, but I carry her name proudly between my first and last.  

An Irish Catholic mother of seven whose husband died, too young, from a heart attack, the woman lives on in all of our minds as a saint. She raised seven (loud, rambunctious) children with grace; worked tirelessly; always had an eye out for those around town in need. She brought an Irish sensibility to her resolution to keep going. She put corned beef and cabbage on the table each St. Patrick's Day. And she made this tomato soup cake.

Tomato Soup Cake on Food52

Which, I know, sounds scary. It sounds like it's trying, ostensibly, to push your boundaries, to eke you out of your comfort zone; but it's more resourceful than avant garde, more humble than hilarious. It's more Betty Crocker than Andy Warhol.

The story goes that Irish immigrants devised this cake from a lack of fresh ingredients -- it calls for no milk, no butter. You'll only open your fridge once, to retrieve two eggs; this recipe pays more attention to your spice drawer, and tastes like something you might come across over the holidays. But I suggest you serve it year round.

Tomato Soup Cake on Food52

Soup cake is my lone heirloom recipe. I'm proud of its freakishness, its humility. It's an embrace of a cake, and then a joke; a hug and a laugh, just the way I imagine Ruthie would welcome me into her home, had she ever been given the chance. 

Tomato Soup Cake

Makes one 2-layer, 10-inch cake

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/3 cups sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
One 10 3/4-ounce can tomato soup
1/2 cup shortening (or butter)
2 large eggs
1/4 cup water
1 cup raisins
Cream cheese frosting

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Cake photos by James Ransom

Jump to Comments (48)

Tags: heirloom recipes, family recipes, tomato soup, cake, dessert, irish, boston,

Comments (48)

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25 days ago Tiffany Kampmann

The writing of this article was extremely charming and enjoyable! I'm not intimidated either, I'm ready to take this cake on! Thank you for sharing both recipe and story

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4 months ago audrey thompson

i think i will bake this for Mothers Day and remember....my Mom made ours with peanut butter icing

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6 months ago Hilary Friedrich

Would this be really strange with chocolate chips? My husband is not a big raisin fan.

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5 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Rare are the days when I say no to a chocolate chip. I say give it a try.

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6 months ago SophieL

I made this cake yesterday afternoon on an impulse because I had all the ingredients on hand, and boy, was it a hit at dinner. The only change I made was baking it in a 13x9" pan for 40 minutes. BTW, my batter was more brownish than pink, but no matter - it was delicious. I took it to work today and people couldn't stop eating it. It's a keeper!

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5 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

So happy to hear this!

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6 months ago Carole lynn

Go to this website to see the original. http://www.foodchannel...

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6 months ago melissa

now all we need is the apple pie made with no apples and ritz crackers !! depression era food

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Tell me more.

Rainbow_carrots

6 months ago diaday

I haven't purchased a box of Ritz in a long time, but this recipe used to be on the back of the box. It's called Ritz Mock Apple Pie. http://www.snackworks.com...

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6 months ago Jane Eyrehead

I like this comment thread. Everyone seems to have an emotional attachment to this recipe. That's why it's important to share food, recipes, fun.

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Totally agreed!

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6 months ago kate72

OMG! My grandmother used to make this when I was a little kid, minus the cream cheese frosting because she hated dairy. I always loved this cake but never got around to asking her for the recipe before she died. I'll definetely be making this cake soon. thanks for the memories ;)

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

I love hearing how many people ate this growing up! Hope you enjoy trying it again.

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6 months ago Carole lynn

I still have those sun glasses and a bathing suit sort of like the one she is wearing. Eating too much cake has made it impossible to fit into but the glasses can still remind me of Atlantic City in the 50s and 60s. All they needed was bongo drums and it could have been a picture of our crowd in front of the Ambassador Hotel.

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Love this story!

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6 months ago Anna

I will think of your Grandmother when I make this!

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Thank you!

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6 months ago karen

My grandmother made this cake and served it with cream cheese frosting. Good memories.

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6 months ago Carole lynn

The earliest reference in print for this cake was an article in the Los Angeles Times newspaper dated September 18, 1928 in a class taught by Mrs. Maybelle Wyman. This cake was very popular in the early 1920s also.

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Wow, good to know! Thanks!

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6 months ago melissa

my grandfather disliked tomatoes and cheese ,it was always a secret as to how my grandmother made his favorite cake .. this brought back wonderful memories.. thank you

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

How funny!

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6 months ago stingraystirs

I love the sunglasses too! Gina - do you have a recipe for that eggless, butter less-milkless cake? Just curious. And thanks again Marian. I made your recipe and it was a hit. Still on the hunt for my Grandmother's, which I'm sure is very similar, if not identical. I put an A.P.B. out within my family for the tattered, stained recipe card I remember it being on. A cousin remembers a Campbell's soup can label taped to a greeting card. I'll keep you posted….

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

This might be the one! http://food52.com/recipes...

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6 months ago gina graff

This recipe, and its WWII cousin recipe, Eggless-butterless-milkless cake, were the birthday cakes I always asked for as a kid.
I would KILL for those sunglasses.

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

I wonder if that's the Amazon cake you're referring to? http://food52.com/recipes...

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6 months ago GraceMargriet

This sounds delicious and interesting! I am in Europe and I am curious what canned tomato soup I should use. And if I can find it here.. Was it Campbell's? (which I find a bit sweet compared to the canned soup we find here)

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Yes, Ruthie used Campbell's!

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6 months ago Sam

Great Tomato Cake Recipe. What I love even more than the recipe is the very affectionately you speak of you grandmother. It's very refreshing.

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Thank you, Sam!

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6 months ago debbie holland

Sam is right - its not only the ingredients but also the love that went into everything you grandmother cooked. I had a grandmother like that too. Thanks for sharing.

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6 months ago Shelley Loader

OMG, my mom used to make a recipe that appears to be just like this one, back in the 70's. She wasn't a very good cook, but this was one of her recipes that I LOVED!

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6 months ago Hilary Friedrich

You don't know how happy you have made me with this recipe. My grandmother used to make us tomato spice bread. Same as your cake without the frosting. I was born in 1960 and I think she was about 75 then. I'm still trying to figure out her jello mayo recipe.

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

Wow, jello mayo! I'm so glad that this cake made you happy!

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6 months ago Jane Eyrehead

This was the "hippie-go-bake" cake of San Francisco in the 'sixties. Someone must have received the recipe from Grandma.

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6 months ago Marian Bull

Marian is Food52's Associate Editor.

"Hippie-go-bake" is now my new favorite phrase.

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6 months ago Jane Eyrehead

Seriously, the recipe was printed in one of the counterculture papers under that name. We all made the cake. I lost the recipe years ago, but this appears to be the very thing. I'll make it for my hipster kids and they will be enchanted.