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How to Eat (and Drink) Your Way Around Charleston, South Carolina

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Welcome to The Holy City, the culture and culinary capital of the lowcountry.

Charleston CityPhoto by andrewpickneyinn.com via Flickr

Before visiting any new city, town, or hamlet, I have to research it online to find the best possible places to eat and drink. My attitude is that if I'm only going to have a few meals in a place, they better be the absolute best meals around. It is an obsession that often annoys those traveling with me, but once we're presented with a plate of [insert local specialty here], the complaints magically stop.

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Therefore, I want to present you with the cream of the crop. Fortunately (and unfortunately), if you're looking for an incredible meal or a picturesque stroll, my new-ish home (I moved to the lowcountry about nine months ago) has almost too many choices. Not only is it enchantingly beautiful (Travel+Leisure named it the most romantic city in America), but Charleston is also one of the most vibrant, creative, and welcoming places I've ever experienced.

Charleston, SC Charleston, SC
Photo on left by @sophietrepp, photo on right by @explorecharleston

This list will inevitably leave some things out (tell me about them in the comments! I'm still new!), and most recommendations are on the more affordable end of the spectrum, since I am not yet wealthy enough to frequent the swankier spots. (I also shied away from listing the more well-known eateries, like Sean Brock's Husk—skip the wait and go to the bar next door—and the uber-Southern Hominy Grill, because you already know about those, don't you?)

More: Read Catherine's regular Food52 column, My Broke Kitchen. 

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Here are my favorite spots in and around Charleston, the ones I find myself returning to again and again, where I most likely know a good portion of the patrons and the bartender, to boot. By the end of the night, you will to. 

To Eat:

  • Bowen's IslandA short drive away from the city, Bowen's Island is a seafood shack taken to the next level. The shrimp is good (people say fried is best, but I get boiled), the Frogmore Stew is a classic, and the local beers are always flowing. But the best part is the view: Go in the early evening and watch the sun set on top of the marsh while slurping down buckets (yes, literal buckets) full of steamed oysters. It's a great spot for a crowd, too.
  • Butcher & Bee. This charming, slightly hipster sandwich shop is only open at lunch. Everything is served on bread baked in-house, and there's a different grilled cheese every day. All the sandwiches are pretty kick-ass, but the sides (especially the kale slaw) are not to be missed. On Fridays and Saturdays the Bee is open from 10 P.M. to 2 A.M., so you can get some hummus and homemade pita or the famous cheeseburger to sober you up before heading home. Oh, and it's also B.Y.O.B. Keep an eye out for the mural by Shepard Fairey, a Charleston native, in the parking lot.
  • Xiao Bao BiscuitXBB (as it's affectionately known to locals) is my absolute favorite spot to eat in Charleston. The menu is a mash-up of a bunch of Asian cuisines: Thai som tum sits on the menu next to Chinese lamb dumplings, and they're famous for their okonomiaki (a Japanese cabbage pancake). They close up shop for one month of the year to travel and get new menu inspiration, and their specials reflect it: They're consistently some of the most innovative dishes I've ever tasted. 
  • F.I.G. If you're going to have one fancy meal out, let it be at F.I.G., which stands for Food Is Good. The food is pricey, but always, always on-point—as is their service. Their chef won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southeast this past year, and he does incredible things with fish. Weirdly, the best thing I've ever eaten there was a side of Carolina Gold rice, which is an heirloom varietal only grown in the lowcountry. 
  • Obstinate DaughterYou'll have to trek out to Sullivan's Island to get to this Italian-ish eatery, but it's worth it—plus, you can fit in a beach walk while you're there. Skip the pizzas and order a starter of their flatbread, then share a bunch of vegetables; they're mostly local and really incredible. Finish up the meal with dessert at Beardcat's, the Obstinate Daughter's gelateria located on their lower level. I recommend a scoop of pistachio and a scoop of olive oil with sea salt.
  • Sugar BakeshopYes, I might be slightly biased since I worked here, but this place serves the best cupcakes that I've ever had. And I don't even like cupcakes! Try a chocolate and honey cupcake (made with local honey), a ginger molasses cookie, or a mini derby tart. Actually, best make it all three. They also make their own popsicles, ice cream, and sun tea (with tea from the Charleston Tea Plantation, America's only one!), which will help you beat the heat.
edmund's oastThe wall of taps at Edmund's Oast by atl10trader courtesy of Flickr.

To Drink:

  • Edmund's OastIf you're into beer, this is the place for you. They have around 50 beers on tap, 8 of which are brewed on the premises, and they change up the menu all the time. If you're not into beer, this is also the place for you. They make damn good cocktails; I'm partial to their punches which are on-tap, and only $4 during happy hour. Bearded barmen are happy to help you pick your poison, and they look good doing it—and they have a shrimp toast which is the best dish I've eaten in Charleston to date.
  • Faculty LoungeWhen I first passed Faculty Lounge, I thought it was an abandoned building. Located on an unassuming street corner removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown, there's hardly any signage to let you know you've found the right place. There are no windows. In fact, if you try to open the door, you'll find it locked. But ring the buzzer, and you'll enter into a dimly-lit bar that's the perfect union of slick and dive-y. You can get expertly made cocktails, $2 PBR on tap, and a bizarre concoction which is meat-infused whiskey. It's a speakeasy without the pretension. 
  • Black TapThis trendy coffeeshop looks like it belongs in Brooklyn, but that's kind of what I like about it. There is better coffee off the island (hit up Collective Coffee if you're a true connoisseur), but with its downtown location, fat straws, and ever-flowing cold brew, Black Tap is a great spot to know about.  
River Dogs game Hampton Park
Left, DIY pizza herbs at the River Dogs stadium; right, a rainbow of flowers at Hampton Park. Photos by @catandlamb, courtesy of Flickr.

To Explore:

  • Take a stroll. Charleston is small enough that you can see most of downtown in a day. Start at the battery, which is basically the bottom of the Holy City's peninsula. Take in some ocean views, then stroll up King Street, the main drag. There are plenty of shops to pop in, and they shift from bougie to bohemian as you walk north. On Saturdays, check out the farmers market in Marion Square, and if you're really ambitious, walk all the way north to Hampton Park, which has a lot of good dog-watching and some beautiful flowers to boot. 
  • Sullivan's Island. It's about a 15-minute drive from downtown, but the beautiful beach and quaint little town are worth it. Bring some folding beach chairs and a towel, and don't forget to hit up Obstinate Daughter and Beardcat's (see above) before heading back to Charleston.
  • RiverDogs gameOwned by Bill Murray, (yes, the Bill Murray), this minor-league baseball team is definitely worth watching. Even if you're sports-averse, there's plenty to enjoy: The stadium is set looking out on a marsh, there are craft beers at a reasonable price, and the food is actually good. There is a ribbon-dancing contest. They light off fireworks. And if you're lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the owner.
  • The Royal AmericanThis dive bar has much more than meets the eye. Not only is the punch good (and strong), the food is actually killer—I'm a huge fan of the veggie patty melt. But the real reason to stop by "Royal" is the local talent. Most nights of the week the bar has live music, and the atmosphere is always friendly. It's a great place to meet other Charlestonians; I guarantee you, you'll leave with a new friend.

Note: Charleston has been in the news a lot lately after the shooting this June, which killed 9 people. I don't want to dwell on this tragedy, but I did want to mention that the community's response of overwhelming love and support was something truly special to experience. #CharlestonStrong

Have you been to Charleston? Where were your favorite places to eat? Sip cocktails? Explore? Tell us in the comments!

Tags: charleston, south carolina, lowcountry, travel, eating, drinking, beach, southern food, south, sean brock, pork