These are tender, ultra-buttery, melt-in-your-mouth biscuits—even though, as you'll notice, there's no butter called for in the recipe. This no mistake. All of the butter in the recipe comes from the cream—a mere technicality, I know.
But there is more to the story: The biscuits are made with rice instead of wheat flour. The flavor of rice flour is so very delicate that it often accentuates the other flavors used with it: Here, it magnifies the flavor of the cream (and the butter therein), so you get more butter flavor without actually using more butter. A little oat flour adds complexity that’s hard to isolate, but would be missed if it were absent. And biscuit makers will be surprised at the amount of mixing—please don’t skimp on mixing. Resting the dough gets you optimum results as well.
If you are gluten-free, and as fussy as Maya Klein (my genius coauthor of Flavor Flours, from which this recipe is excerpted—check out the book for more uses and variations!) and I, you might be interested in some of the details of our biscuit testing. We tested three different brands of rice flour (not sweet rice, a.k.a. mochi flour) for these biscuits: Bob’s Red Mill, Authentic Foods Super Fine rice flour, and a Thai brand of rice flour, either Erawan or Flying Horse (both of which are even finer than the Authentic Foods Super Fine) found in Asian groceries. Excellent results were had with each of the three flours, but the nicest browning and texture came with using the Thai flour. Authentic Foods came in second. Serve these warm with (more!) butter and jam, make shortcakes or top cobblers with them…
- 1 1/3 cups (200 grams) white rice flour (preferably superfine) or 2 cups (200 grams) Thai white rice flour
- 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (60 grams) oat flour
- 2 teaspoons sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon xanthan gum
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 cup plain yogurt (any percent fat)
What makes a good biscuit to you? Give us your musts in the comments.