How to Ace a Farmers Market in France
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cosmiccook August 12, 2018
Thanks, Carrie, I wish I'd seen this article in May BEFORE we visited France! Our first visit to Lyon, second to Paris 10 years prior. I will take Lyon over Paris ANY DAY! As Nouvelle Orlean residents, we just loved Lyon! Our two biggest issues were the awful Airbnb we rented and the TGV train strike. We'd went to Lyon to visit a dear friend and she was a bit disappointed we didn't rent closer to her (Tolsti/Lafayette)! My friend contended the Quai St. Antoine was the better Marché. There were more flower varieties but walking ONE block every morning to the market was a dream come true! Yes, we visited the Boulangerie several times--well we did have to try the others in the area!
MarieGlobetrotter June 23, 2017
My father lives in La Croix-Rousse. He wouldn't live anywhere else in Lyon. It's one of the best if not the best neighborhood for food in the city. The market is not too big and to small, and offers a real village atmosphere because people who live there don't use their cars because the streets are small. After they have done their shopping, people sit at a terrasse and eat oysters, cheese or enjoy a croissant and coffee. I don't miss France at all but it's indeed a great market. I do miss Faisselle though (type of yoghurt-fromage blanc). Oh and that green cheese pictures above is AMAZING
Carrie S. June 23, 2017
Yes, Croix-Rousse does have that effect on you! I have lived in Villeurbanne (close suburb, almost part of Lyon), and then in the Guillotière neighborhood... But when we moved to Croix-Rousse, I didn't expect to become so fond of it, to get such a strong sense of... "belonging". We are lucky, yes we are! And yes: sweet faisselle for dessert, yum! Thank you for reading, Marie!
Eleftheria June 20, 2017
This is for me one of the most fascinating differences in our cultures. In Greece theres an opwn farmera market right in the street in every neigborhood every week. It takes place on a standartd dau every week all year long and they actually close the street for the market to take place. Its open 7 to 3 and you cant NOT go because the produce is fresh seasonal and cheap.
Risottogirl June 20, 2017
I love that market! Lyon is a great walkable and cookable city!
Carrie S. June 20, 2017
It is! That city adopted me when I moved, and when I spend weeks or months at a time abroad, it is the part of France that I miss the most. As I said in another piece, it is my very own French San Francisco, my European Montréal, my urban Golden B.C! Thank you for reading Risottogirl :)
ChefJune June 20, 2017
Carrie Speaking, the Marché de Croix-Rousse is my favorite market in all of France! I learned to make Cervelle de Canut from my French "brother," Jean-Paul Lacombe, and I always use Fromage Blanc - which we can get here in the States now. My recipe has been here on Food52 for several years. https://food52.com/recipes/22768-cervelle-de-canut-fresh-cheese-with-fines-herbes
Carrie S. June 20, 2017
I'm so glad you spread the word June! Cervelle de canut is such a great appetizer (or meal-closer, as you aptly put it)! Fromage blanc is indeed perfect, as faisselle is just a fresh, raw-milk fromage blanc in a mold. And "la cervelle" leaves room for creativity! Cervelle de canut is for the French what Tabbouleh is for the Lebanese: every neighborhood, every family, every individual have their very own recipe, with their very own mix of herbs and variety of white wine / vinegar! :)
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