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Scrambled eggs are so simple that you know the ingredient list (eggs) and technique (scrambling) just from the name. You may not need a recipe—but after reading enough of them, scrambled eggs can start to feel pretty complicated. Bon Appétit tells you to use an immersion blender. The Kitchn says to add sour cream. Epicurious (which got the trick from Lucky Peach, which got the trick from the late sandwich shop Saltie, in Brooklyn) suggests you cook the whites, then add the yolks, then scramble. Serious Eats wonders what kind of scrambled eggs you want: Fluffy? Soft? French-style soft? There’s an article for that and that and that!
I mean, I get it. I, too, am offering up another take on scrambled eggs. It’s one of those “My mom’s chocolate chip cookies are the best chocolate chip cookies” situations. Except in this case, it’s “My scrambled eggs are the best scrambled eggs.” And they are! At least to me. My totally subjective requirements:
Scrambled eggs should be speedy. This means no low-and-slow heat. No stirring over a double boiler. No pre-salting and waiting 10 minutes. No, no, no. Get in, get out—or, you know, onto some toast. Lots of butter in a small skillet set over medium-high heat means the eggs cook almost instantly, becoming fluffy and ruffly, soft and tender.
Scrambled eggs should be simple. If the recipe is that complicated, boy bye. So long to special equipment and long ingredient lists and backseat-driving instructions. You know how to make scrambled eggs. Don’t let a recipe make you doubt that.
Scrambled eggs should take themselves seriously. Scrambled was my go-to egg order for most of my childhood. Serving preference: smothered with ketchup. This doesn’t resonate for me anymore, so to update and upgrade them, I lose the ketchup and make up for the flavor elsewhere: Let the butter brown—almost burn—just before the eggs are poured into the pan. Finish with flaky salt and just-ground black pepper for seasoning and texture.
Here’s the full recipe. You’ll read it once, then never open it again. And that’s the whole point.
Emma is a writer and recipe developer at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing stories about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. She now lives in Maplewood, New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, which is all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram and Twitter at @emmalaperruque.