Every week in Genius Recipes—often with your help!—Food52 Creative Director and lifelong Genius-hunter Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that will change the way you cook.
If you’re in need of more muscle memory dinners, more answers that call back to you when you stare into the fridge with an empty, hopeful brain: This speedy little cacio e pepe is here for you.
Photo by Julia Gartland
I should say: This speedy little “cacio” e pepe, because there is no cacio (cheese). But the effect is remarkably similar and, by divorcing himself from the aged pecorino in the cult Roman pasta, Momofuku Noodle Bar Executive Chef Tony Kim has made this rich, comforting salty-spicy-creamy pasta sauce more accessible to anyone in the mood, regardless of the skills they possess and how deft they’re feeling at the time.
This is because traditional cacio e pepe relies on practice and patience, and vigorous tossing—a technique well worth mastering, but maybe not tonight—to make a smooth sauce. Dry, grated cheese and starchy pasta water don’t inherently gravitate toward one another—the wrong heat, timing, moisture, or position of Mercury can send the sauce into dry and clumpy misalignment.
Photo by Julia Gartland
But, as Kim has discovered, a swirl of miso, butter, and chicken stock do no such thing—they love melding together. “The emulsification process pretty much happens on its own,” Kim wrote when he published this recipe in Lucky Peach in 2016.
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Top Comment:
“Really disappointed to see all the negative comments here. I’ve made this many times over the years after seeing the recipe in a Lucky Peach magazine. It’s delicious! Despite the comments about it bearing no resemblance to true cacio e pepe, it does. The umami of the miso and the fat of the butter actually do a good job of mimicking the flavors you would get from pecorino or parmigiano. Try it out. ”
They also happen to make an incredibly delicious, noodle-coating sauce that does a very fine impression of a creamy, cheese-based one. And there’s a good chance they’re all waiting for you in your fridge and freezer now.
Photo by Julia Gartland
From here, Kim fiddled a bit further with the rest of the dish, morphing the black pepper into a more complex, three-pronged punch of black, white, and tingly Sichuan peppercorns, and replacing the dry Italian pasta with chewy fresh ramen noodles. Happily, these are getting easier to find in grocery stores (check in the refrigerated section near the tofu and miso), but I have to tell you: A package of cheap, dry ramen is also very good here.
Every last one of these elements can (and may already) live in your kitchen, ready to spring into action for a last-ditch dinner for you, for the family, or for a phalanx of hungry guests. All without sharpened skills or focus, the ingredients carrying you through.
tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, softened
2
teaspoons white miso
1/2
cup chicken stock, plus more as needed
1/2
teaspoon freshly ground Sichuan pepper (or to taste), plus more for garnish**
1/2
teaspoon freshly ground white pepper (or to taste), plus more for garnish**
1/2
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or to taste), plus more for garnish**
1
portion fresh ramen noodles (or dry ramen noodles in a pinch)
Kosher salt, to taste
1
tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, softened
2
teaspoons white miso
1/2
cup chicken stock, plus more as needed
1/2
teaspoon freshly ground Sichuan pepper (or to taste), plus more for garnish**
1/2
teaspoon freshly ground white pepper (or to taste), plus more for garnish**
1/2
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or to taste), plus more for garnish**
1
portion fresh ramen noodles (or dry ramen noodles in a pinch)
Got a genius recipe to share—from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at genius@food52.com—thank you to the great Brette Warshaw for this one!
From our new podcast network, The Genius Recipe Tapes is lifelong Genius hunter Kristen Miglore’s 10-year-strong column in audio form, featuring all the uncut gems from the weekly column and video series. Subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts so you don’t miss out.
I'm an ex-economist, lifelong-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007, before returning to the land of Dutch Crunch bread and tri-tip barbecues in 2020. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."
As someone who misses Nishi deeply I’ve been toying with this recipe. My suggestion: use more miso!!! At least a tablespoon per serving, and make sure it’s incorporated with your butter before adding noodles. Also good pasta water can totally replace stock as long as you stir vigorously to incorporate all elements.
Well you can call it a Korean Cacio e Pepe or an Asian Cacio e Pepe since Asians don’t cook with cheese with the exception of Korea more recently adding cheddar cheese or processed cheese to dishes like sizzling bulgogi. This is a brilliant dish because you can copycat the look of Cacio e Pepe in a unique and yummy way. Americans do it all the time with Italian and Mexican food.
i avoid cheese. this recipe looks easy to tweak further to create a totally plant-based version (with homemade vegan "butter" and veg stock). thanks for a good idea.
Really disappointed to see all the negative comments here. I’ve made this many times over the years after seeing the recipe in a Lucky Peach magazine. It’s delicious! Despite the comments about it bearing no resemblance to true cacio e pepe, it does. The umami of the miso and the fat of the butter actually do a good job of mimicking the flavors you would get from pecorino or parmigiano. Try it out.
This sounds interesting, but it isn’t cacio e pepe. Personally, I would skip this and go with Nigella’s Spaghetti with Marmite if I didn’t want to make the real thing.
I have to agree with Francesca M. This sounds tasty, but has nothing to do with cheese.
SmittenKitchen recently posted a foolproof recipe for Cacio e pepe and I've made it twice now with great success. It really works! https://smittenkitchen.com/2018/09/foolproof-cacio-e-pepe/
I will try this because the flavors all sound great, but also think that the name is inapt. Cheap ramen noodles are a total no go, however. The ingredient lists tell you all you need to know. I will upgrade instead of making chemical stew. If you want a delicious, very easy and pure Cacio e Pepe recipe, try Smitten Kitchen's food processor / immersion blender three ingredient -- cheese, pepper, pasta -- version. Make it a little ahead of time to come to room temp; dress the piping hot pasta with it, and add a little hot pasta water if necessary.
Ramen noodles are the issues -- not miso or pecorino. Italian pasta has two or three ingredients top, all natural. Check out some ramen noodles packages. You can get good ones, but you have to search. Sorry if my paragraph failed to convey the issue.
A nice enough dish, but bears no relation to the real thing. why not call it something else?
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