Cheesecake expertise
I bake pies, tarts, cookies and breads much more than cake or cheesecake. So I've got a question for any cheesecake experts out there. Because of a typo in the recipe, I once baked a cheesecake at 250 F (in a water bath) instead of 350 F. I saw the problem and just kept it in the oven until it wasn't seriously jiggly in the center any longer. It turned out beautifully and everyone begged for the recipe. (Thank god for happy mistakes.) I'm wondering if it's an approach you could take with pretty much any cheesecake - long and slow, in a water bath? Thanks.
Recommended by Food52
6 Comments
http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/marbled-pumpkin-cheesecake-with-a-brownie-crust
Any suggestions very welcome!
You asked for cheesecake expertise and I'm not sure I can offer that. But I can explain a little of the science behind the technique:
Low and slow here is not the same as when braising or roasting, but it can help nonetheless. The slower you cook a cheesecake, the less chance there is to overshoot and overcook. Cheesecake is a custard, nothing to be gained from slow cooking per se. But overcooking, and thus over coagulation of the egg proteins will definitely cause trouble, cracking being one issue, dry texture another.
That said, the water bath is there to modulate the oven's heat, the idea being to slowly and thus evenly transfer heat to the cake's mass. My guess is there will be more of a difference in water temperature due to the size of the bain marie than the oven's temperature. The laws of physics state the water bath cannot exceed boiling (212F) no matter how high the oven is set. In fact, due to evaporative cooling, it won't even approach that temperature. (Oven temp will have some effect on browning but that's another issue.)
Regardless, the critical issue here is to not allow the egg proteins to get too hot. Your best weapon is cooking by temperature rather than by time. And by temperature, I mean the cheesecake's temperature. Stick a probe in it and kill the heat at 155-160F. Going by time is a fool's errand. The time it takes for any given mass to reach a given temperature is dependent upon many factors including, and specifically, the temperature of the ingredients at the start of baking. I'm sure there are bakers who can consistently pull their cheesecakes based upon a jiggle test like Cynthia can. I'm not one of them but I can nail the temperature every time.
https://food52.com/recipes/11254-cappuccino-cheesecake