Have you ever made pasta by hand? What are your favorite fresh, regional pastas? And what do you serve them with?
Emiko recently wrote an article entitled In Italy, "Pasta" Can Mean Hundreds of Different Things, where she asked these questions. cv , myself and others answered so I thought I would pose the question to the hotline to see some other opinions and favorites. I'm sure there are as many favorites as there are pasta shapes.
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My daughter (with 'help' from a 10-year old cousin) recently made capeletti filled with puréed peas and ricotta, or sautéed mushrooms. Weren't pretty but tasted divine.
A fun book is 'The Geometry of Pasta' by Caz Hildebrandt and Jacob Kenedy...I probably love it most for the illustrations, but the simple pasta dough recipe works well.
I usually like pasta the simply way,
- Warm: a splash of olive oil, a bit of garlic, parsley and slices of fresh parmesan - Cold fresh baby tomatoes, tomato sauce mixed with yoghurt
- Warm or cold: Pesto with yogurt/light cream
And if I were travelling in Italy, I would use that as a criterion, to get interesting or best local variations.
But when not in Italy, I think by shape, and what I have around to make with the pasta.
So:
flat by rolling pin or extruder: maltagliati (for minestrone), fettucine (many sauces), lasagna (ditto), kreplach (triangular pasta filled with meat or cheese, served in soup or fried as appetizer. BTW, I noticed once, when making these, that my mother's recipe for the dough & Marcella Hazan's for ravioli matched. Cousins under the skin?)
shaped: cavatelli (ricotta), orecchiette (rapini or broccoli)
One of my more interesting experiments involved adding some spelt flour to regular all-purpose (I ran short of AP that day and didn't want to run to the store). The subsequent dough came out well enough that I will definitely make it occasionally.
I gave up making raviolis as I was spending too much time/effort in the whole process. The pasta dough itself is pretty simple, but I was making crazy fillings and finishing making raviolis at 1am on a weekday. Maybe when I retire I will go back to those crazy projects. Man, some of those were good though, but right now I value my time and sleep more.
Good eggs make a big difference. I used to get really awesome eggs from a colleague who raised chickens, but alas, that source is gone and the three egg stands at my farmers market have been inconsistent over the years, so I have resigned to buying grocery store eggs. (sigh)
For sure, today none of my pasta dishes resemble the standard Italian-American classics apart from the pasta with a tomato-based bolognese-style sauce.
There are various twist shapes such as the trofie of Genoa. The correct accompaniment would be pesto.
Than you can move on to the ravioli and tortellini etc. These range from easy to very difficult. A chef from Sardinia tried to teach me to make cuglione, which is like a half moon ravioli but with a very delicate closer that resembles a braid. He told me mine were "troppo cinese."
The best book on the subject apart from the ones dedicated to specific regions is Oretta Zanini de Vita; PASTA THE ITALIAN WAY, SAUCES AND SHAPES. The translator Maureen Fant is an acquaintance of mine who has helped me out on a couple of occasions.