Spring wakes up out mouths as well as our gardens and May provides its own brief season of treats, including ramps. Pickled ramps have become a staple on many spring menus, and recipes abound. The sweet/sour acidity of the pickling process mellows their bite and treated in this manner they are a terrific accompaniment to pâté and roasted meats. I love ramps pickled, but feel their distinctive character is best developed when paired with other ingredients. The sweetness of butter, the smokiness of the trout and the crispiness of the potatoes works here to transform that bite into lush comfort food.
4 as lunch
cleaned and chopped ramps (including a bit of the green leaves), that have been sautéed until soft in 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter