Browning the butter. Set a small skillet over medium-high heat. The butter will start to foam and bubble. Don't touch it. The butter will turn clear for a moment then start to darken. It's easy for butter to burn quickly, so watch it closely. When the butter is browned and smelling wonderful, take the pan off the heat. Allow the butter to cool.
Preparing to bake. Heat the oven to 350° F. Line a 9-inch cake pan with a circle of parchment paper, buttered on both sides.
Macerating the fruit. Add the peaches, lemon juice, 2/3 of the sugar, and the cinnamon into a large bowl. Stir them together.
Making the buckle batter. In a bowl, whisk together 200 grams of the flour, the baking powder, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt.
In another bowl, whisk together 1/2 of the browned butter and the remaining 1/3 of the sugar. Stir in 1 egg at a time, whisking each one in fully before adding the next. Stir in the milk.
Sprinkle the flour mixture over the liquid mixture and stir them together with a rubber spatula until no visible flour is left. Pour the batter into the pan.
Arrange the peaches over the top of the batter. No need to be too fussy here -- the streusel will cover them.
Making the streusel topping. Combine the brown sugar, the remaining 65 grams of the flour, and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt with the remaining brown butter. Stir until the mixture looks like large, damp crumbs. Arrange the streusel topping evenly over the the top of the buckle.
Baking the buckle. Bake the buckle until the top is golden brown and springy to the touch. If you insert a toothpick in the center and you come up with moist crumbs, you're done. (That should take about 40 to 50 minutes.)
Shauna writes about food. Danny cooks it.
We grow excited every Saturday morning to go to the farmers' market. This time of year, a Billy Allstot tomato is enough to make us look like goons at the stand, jumping up and down with excitement. We will eat one slice with sea salt, standing over the sink. Another goes to our baby daughter. The rest might go into the smoker to make smoked tomato salsa, or thrown together with watermelon and good olive oil for a watermelon gazpacho, or stacked with smoked salmon and drizzled with horseradish sour cream.
Every day is new. I have no idea what we're having for dinner tonight. But I'm sure interested to find out.