Making pasta with friends is one of the great pleasures of the kitchen. Like so many Italian dishes, making pasta is simple but it does require patience. Rolling out dough over and over until it’s stretched out across the kitchen is an act full of history and folklore. The secret of pasta has been handed down generation after generation for thousands of years, and as you make it, there’s a sense of upholding tradition, rather than bowing to modernity.
The whole dish takes a good few hours from start to finish, but most of it can be made ahead. The applesauce will keep for months in a jar, the dough will survive a few days in the fridge and the filling will happily keep overnight. Rolling pasta can be fiddly and infuriating, so invite some friends over and make use of their extra pair of hands.
—Sean St John