One-Pot Wonders

Perfect Risotto Milanese

February 22, 2016
5 Ratings
Photo by thirschfeld
  • Serves 4
Author Notes

I don’t get the allure of risotto. Years ago at culinary school, every student revered the dish except me, and slowly I've come to hate it. It's overrated.
I've practiced making it at home with the guidance of some of the best cookbook authors of the day. I stand at the stove as instructed, stirring, hot broth on the back burner, and all of the ingredients at hand. Inevitably after the required 19 minutes of stirring, ladling, and coddling as instructed, I have a pot of hot, goopy rice, but I am never impressed.

I never get tired of cooking, but eventually I did tire of making risotto.
I had given up ordering risotto in restaurants long ago for the same reasons I quit making it at home. But on a chance, just like the dollar I dropped into a slot and pulled the arm as I walked by, I ordered it. I took the gamble and it too payed off, just like the $1600 slot earlier in the day.

I don’t eat at restaurants often. Not because I don’t enjoy them - because I do - it’s more that my wife, Amy, and I splurge when we go out to eat. A few times a year we spend lots of money at a few restaurants. A weekend in Napa or New York City is perfect for this. This time we headed to Las Vegas where there are lots of great restaurants tucked within a confined space. We made plans to hit several famous chef’s restaurants. It’s what we do when we go to Vegas. Others gamble, we eat.

On a whim, we decided to go into Le Cirque, the off shoot of the famous New York City restaurant. Le Cirque is whimsical. It ’s dinner under the big top, draping curtains hanging from the ceiling like a technicolor circus tent, highlighting a huge chandelier centered in a huge circular room. No corner table. Gaudy at best but it pairs perfectly with Cirque Du Soleil playing one ring over.

As I glanced at the veritable circus around us, the ringmaster balanced hot plates on his arm and delivered them to our table. The risotto dish set in front of me was the most exquisite rice dish ever. Tender rice but with a spring to it. The acidity of the white wine, added and burned off au sec, is a perfect match for the Parmesan and the starchy rice. Brothy, but not too much so. Fine dinning at its best. It is out of place in Vegas: to simple, not garish enough. Still, that rice dish will hold a place at the front of my mind for the rest of the weekend and follow me around for a long time to come.

I arrived back home with renewed determination. I had to figure out how to make risotto like that. It's like a three-ring circus in my kitchen: ingredients spread all around while I'm stirring and ladling and stirring and measuring and stirring some more. Another carefully measured attempt ends yet again with disappointment. How could it not? I can make a perfect pot of rice, but I can’t make risotto. No amount of hope can fix that.

I did my best to just move on. There are so many wonderful foods in this world; there is no point in getting hung up on any one failure. It’s not like anyone notices a gaping risotto hole in my cooking repertoire. And what if they did? It’s only risotto.

But I do. I notice. And for me it is an empty pan smoking over high heat. Cooking is what I do. Making food the best that I possibly can is what drives me. Once my palate has experienced something new and exciting there are no lengths to which I won’t go in order to replicate that experience.

And so I head back to the stove with another recipe for Risotto Milanese, seeking yet again that illusive pairing of a creamy texture and toothsome rice. I carefully ladle in the broth seeking to master the ultimate balancing act. —thirschfeld

What You'll Need
  • 2 teaspoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup yellow onion, finely diced
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1 cup arborio rice
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 3/4 cups homemade or sodium free chicken broth
  • 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, very cold
  • 1/2 cup Parmegiano-Reggiano
  • 1 tablespoon chives, minced
  1. Place a 4-quart pressure cooker over medium high heat. Add the butter, and when it begins to bubble, add the onions. Sauté until the onions begin to soften.
  2. Add the dry white wine and bring it to a boil. Reduce the wine by half and add the rice and stir to coat. Add salt, chicken stock, crush the saffron into the pot, and bring the liquid to a boil.
  3. Lock the lid into place and bring the pressure to high. Once the pot is to pressure start a timer set for 7 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and use the cold water release method to drop the pressure. Remove the lid.
  4. Stir in the chilled butter followed with the Parmesan. If the risotto is stiff, add more broth 1 TBS. at a time until you reach the desired consistency. Divide the rice into 4 bowls, garnish a little more cheese and chives. Serve immediately.

See what other Food52ers are saying.

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    Barbara Annemarie
  • Ida-Maria Skavhaug
    Ida-Maria Skavhaug
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    Diane Negrón
  • Devangi Raval
    Devangi Raval
  • anotherfoodieblogger

13 Reviews

rlsalvati February 13, 2021
Yummy and well received by my family. Instant pot rather than stovetop pressure cooker for me, and my rice took several extra minutes. Easy enough to quick release, check consistency, and pop the lid back on. My first instant pot risotto, I loved having time to pull the rest of dinner together while the rice was cooking in the pot without having to hurry back and stir, stir, stir. The color and aroma the saffron gives the dish is incredible.
Barbara A. January 6, 2020
So lovely, simple and quick! Came out perfect using reduced sodium chicken broth. Would maybe back off pressure cooking time by 1 min because it was ever so ::slightly:: overdone. Will be making risotto cakes with the leftovers.
Danny June 12, 2016
Reviews are the great way to judge service . Feel free to read mymathdone review
Ida-Maria S. March 28, 2016
OOh I am a big fan of the saffron flavour in there... I'll be making this again :-)
Diane N. March 6, 2016
My goodness! This looks so heavenly!
Devangi R. February 25, 2016
Ohh I love risotto! The best risotto that I had was in Mikonos,Greece. I tried it at so many places in Italy, but nothing could compare it with the one I had in Greece. I am going to try to make it at home with your recipe and technique. After all, It's only Risotto! Thank you.
anotherfoodieblogger February 22, 2016
Lovely recipe! I have made risotto in the pressure cooker ever since you posted this method on your blog. Yours is so beautiful with the saffron.
ChefJune February 22, 2016
Bravo! I never order risotto in a restaurant because I know how most of them make it, and it's not pretty, and it's not real risotto - because as you know, risotto requires your undivided attention for about 20 minutes. I do however, really enjoy making it at home for a small enough group of friends that they can gather around me at the stove while it comes to life. Perfect risotto is a thing of real beauty and deliciousness. So glad you finally found the Pot of Gold (literally!)
Maureen February 22, 2016
One half cup saffron? Surely that's a typo or the world's most expensive risotto.
thirschfeld February 22, 2016
A one click difference makes all the difference in the world. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Smaug February 24, 2016
I'd still like to know how much saffron- if it's ground, that's a huge amount; if it's not, could be almost any amount.
inpatskitchen February 22, 2016
Tom..this looks wonderful and I love your story but is there really 1/2 cup of saffron in this?
thirschfeld February 22, 2016
There was until you brought it to my attention. Thanks!!!