Another way to eat pizza for breakfast—without, you know, literally eating pizza for breakfast. A few notes on substitutions: Don't substitute fresh, whole-milk mozzarella; it has too much moisture and will lead to a soggy omelet. Don't substitute just any tomato sauce, either, for the same reason; you can use another recipe—just make sure to reduce it until very thick. Do add pizza-y toppings, like pepperoni or anchovies or mushrooms. —Emma Laperruque
Make the tomato sauce. Heat the olive oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry for a minute or so, until just starting to toast. Add the oregano and pepper flakes, stir, and immediately add the tomatoes and their juices. Roughly break up the tomatoes with your hands or a wooden spoon. Add the butter, onion, and salt. Stir. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring every so often, until very thick—about 45 minutes. Season with salt to taste.
Make an omelet! Combine the eggs and salt in a bowl and beat with a fork. Heat the olive oil in an 8-inch, preferably nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. (If you don’t have nonstick, add a little more olive oil.)
When the oil is warm, pour in the eggs. Use a heatproof rubber spatula to drag from the edge to the center—12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock—for 15 or so seconds, then leave alone. Cook undisturbed for a couple minutes. When the edges are starting to set and omelet is partway between puddle and cooked, add the tomato sauce to half the circle and spread evenly with the spatula or your fingertips. Sprinkle the cheese on top of the tomato sauce. Let cook for another 30 seconds or so, until the bottom is browning. Use the spatula to gingerly fold the naked side on top of the tomato-cheesy side. Cook for another 30 seconds or so, then transfer to a plate. (Depending on your flame, this should take just shy of 4 minutes from start to finish.)
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing articles about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. Now she lives in Maplewood, New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.