Wylie Dufresne, an early leader in the molecular gastronomy movement, gets around the classic custardy-eggs-must-happen-slowly rule in a smart and rather deviant way—he cranks up the heat and whisks swiftly, finishing his tiny-curded eggs in about a minute. Then he makes up for the punishing treatment by melting in a generous amount of cream cheese, which quickly restores the eggs to custard-like status. Recipe adapted slightly from Du's Donuts via Bon Appetit (March 2018). To see the full story, head here. —Genius Recipes
thick slices Martin’s Potato Bread or other white bread
Unsalted butter (for the pan)
In This Recipe
To make the scrambled eggs, whisk the eggs and cayenne in a small bowl; season generously with salt (about 1/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt or 1/8 teaspoon fine salt is good).
Heat the 2 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. As soon as it begins to foam, add the eggs and cook, whisking constantly, until they have set in small curds and are beginning to look dry, about 1 minute. Immediately remove from heat and whisk in cream cheese. Note: Eggs can be scrambled 2 hours ahead, then spread into a single layer in a sheet pan. Store tightly covered at room temperature, then trim into squares to fit each sandwich. Don't worry about the initial shape being perfect, as you can press any lingering scraps of egg into the sandwiches as well—no waste!
When you’re ready to make the sandwiches, divide the cheese between the slices of bread and top with egg mixture. Close up sandwiches.
Heat a dry large skillet over medium-low and brush very lightly with butter. Toast sandwiches until the bread is golden brown and the cheese has melted, about 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately.
Note: At Du's, Dufresne also serves a bacon version. To make your own: cut 2 slices of bacon per sandwich into lardons, pan-fry to render out the bacon fat, then drain the crisped bacon on paper towels, reserving the fat. Scramble the eggs in a mix of half butter, half bacon fat. Fold the crisped, drained bacon into the eggs with the cream cheese.
Genius recipes surprise us and make us rethink cooking tropes. They're handed down by luminaries of the food world and become their legacy. They get us talking and change the way we cook. And, once we've folded them into our repertoires, they make us feel pretty genius too. Watch for new Genius Recipes every Wednesday morning on our blog, dug up by Food52's Senior Editor Kristen Miglore.