Dark & Spicy Roasted Squash "Bread"

January 18, 2019

Test Kitchen-Approved

Author Notes:

Gloriously and unusually spiced with garam masala and ginger, this moist, dark, sweet loaf starts with roasted squash and ends with a lashing of crunchy poppy and black chia seeds. Inspiration came from the squash bread I tasted at Kelsie Kerr’s Standard Fare Kitchen and Pantry in West Berkeley.

My version includes buckwheat flour and is gluten-free and entirely whole-grain, if you choose brown rice flour instead of white rice flour along with the buckwheat flour therein. At first, I admit that I was intrigued but uncertain about the hints of cumin (one of the spices in garam masala) in a sweet baked good—then I couldn’t get enough of it. I made one loaf with a somewhat cumin-forward garam masala from my favorite local purveyor, Oaktown Spice, and another with homemade garam masala from Nik Sharma’s book, Season. Nik’s blend is lighter on the cumin and a tad more generous with the cardamom. Both loaves had fans and both disappeared in a flash.

Although it’s called "bread," this loaf is actually a quick bread, sometimes called tea loaf—but really a cake baked in a loaf pan! (I used to think this bread versus cake conceit was understood—that banana bread and pumpkin bread and persimmon bread and gingerbread were all actually cakes shaped like breads—but maybe not?)

Alice Medrich

Serves: 1 loaf
Prep time: 10 min
Cook time: 1 hrs 20 min

Ingredients

  • 8 tablespoons (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted
  • 1 cup (200 grams) sugar
  • 2 large cold eggs
  • 3/4 cup (120 grams) white or brown rice flour
  • 1/3 cup (40 grams) buckwheat flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon ground garam masala
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt (I use fine sea salt)
  • 2 tablespoons (17 grams) poppy seeds
  • 1 tablespoon (10 grams) black chia seeds
  • 3/4 cup (170 grams) roasted butternut squash, pureed or simply mashed until smooth (see Note)
In This Recipe

Directions

  1. Line the bottom and all four sides of an 8.5 x 4.5–inch (6-cup) loaf pan with parchment paper (https://food52.com/blog/13618-the-fail-safe-way-to-line-a-baking-pan-with-parchment-paper).
  2. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat it to 350°F (if your oven is convection, adjust the temperature according to manufacturer's instructions and check for bread's doneness early, as well).
  3. Combine the butter, sugar, and eggs in a mixer bowl. Beat on medium speed with the paddle attachment until light in color and fluffy, about 2 minutes—or 3 to 4 minutes with a handheld mixer on medium-high speed.
  4. Add the rice and buckwheat flours, baking soda, baking powder, salt, garam masala, ginger, poppy and chia seeds, and squash puree. Beat on low speed, just until all of the ingredients are evenly blended. Scrape into the prepared pan. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool the loaf in the pan on a rack.
  5. Note: A 2 1/2–pound squash will make enough puree for at least 3 loaves of this cake. Leaving skin on, slice a whole (or partial) butternut squash into rings 3/4 inches thick and remove the seeds and membrane. Lay rings on a greased baking sheet and roast in a 425°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes until the squash is browned on the underside (this makes for a richer flavor). Flip and continue roasting slices for 5 to 10 minutes, until very soft when pierced with a fork. Let cool and peel skin from the rings. To avoid using extra equipment or getting out your food processor, simply weigh out 170 grams of peeled squash and put it into the mixer bowl you intend to use for the batter. Beat until smooth. Scrape the squash out the bowl and set aside. No need to wash the bowl before proceeding with the batter.

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Reviews (2) Questions (1)

2 Reviews

Jen C. January 29, 2019
I never thought I would be this type of person but here I am - reviewing the recipe even though I changed a bunch of things. I did not have buckwheat flour, so I subbed a mix of white whole wheat and AP. I didn't have poppy seeds or chia seeds; I subbed hemp seeds and sunflower seeds. Finally, I assumed that "8 tablespoons butter" should be 8 oumces, to match the weight in grams. <br /><br />This was SO good. My substitutions did not ruin it. The flavor was so good. The crunch of the seeds was great; it might be worth getting the poppy and chia seeds for my next batch. But the spices - perfection. Really just a fantastic flavor.
 
Author Comment
Alice M. January 30, 2019
This is hilariously wonderful. I so love that you got a great result regardless of so many changes. That often does not happen and we despair of cooks who make so many changes and then criticize the recipe! Even funnier (and maybe a testament to a very forgiving recipe?), 8 T butter (not 8 ounces) was actually the correct amount, it was the gram weight that was wrong (my bad), so thanks to you I've now corrected the grams to 113!