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Prep time
15 minutes
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Cook time
25 minutes
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Serves
6 to 8
Author Notes
While I’m lucky to find beautiful and diverse varieties of mushrooms in the New York farmers’ markets, lately I couldn’t help but notice the proliferation of interesting varieties on more conventional supermarket shelves. Mushrooms are having a moment, and I’m here for it. With the addition of the ever-reliable and humble egg, this frittata lets mushrooms be the star of the show, with a little help from some herbs and goat cheese.
Most mushrooms would work well here—with the exception of portobello which may taste rubbery in contrast to the tender egg. My favorite mushrooms for this recipe are the ones that retain a little bite and get crispy browned edges from cooking. At the market I may pick up a few handfuls of hen of the woods (also known as maitake) or yellow oyster mushrooms; at the grocery store I’d look for packages that say “Chef’s Sampler,” brown beech, or baby shiitakes. Pre-sliced mushrooms work perfectly fine, but I prefer to leave the mushrooms in larger, bite-size pieces to preserve more of their visual appeal and texture. Halve or quarter the caps on creminis and shiitakes, and split clustered mushrooms like oyster or hen of the woods into manageable pieces with your hands, keeping in mind that the mushrooms will shrink as they sauté. Mushrooms that are already small (like beech or baby shiitake) are also perfect for this since you can keep them whole; just trim off any particularly tough-feeling ends.
To make a frittata that’s custardy—rather than spongy—start the eggs in the skillet, slowly stirring scrambled-egg-style, until they form large curds and leave trails behind the spatula in the pan. This gives the egg a head start on cooking for less oven time and a more tender result. It’s also important to pre-cook the mushrooms so that they don’t release moisture into the frittata. To get the best browning on the mushrooms, let them sit undisturbed for a minute or two before stirring. Don’t be afraid of color here, as it results in the richest flavor. I like to reserve a little bit of the mushrooms to top the frittata before it hits the oven, but this is purely for vanity and totally optional. (Though I will say, you eat with your eyes first!)
Whether you consider a frittata a crustless quiche or a lazy cooks’ omelet, it makes an excellent vessel for your favorite ingredients. It’s a satisfying addition to a brunch menu, easy to whip up as “breakfast for dinner,” and is one of the easiest dishes to serve to overnight guests in the morning. If mushrooms and goat cheese are too polarizing for your crew, once you have the basic method down, you can follow the proportions and technique with any of your favorite combinations of cheeses, herbs, and vegetables.
Serve the frittata hot or at room temperature; bonus points for a crisp green salad on the side. This recipe comes together quickly, but feel free to prep ahead; sauté the mushroom mixture, and whisk together the egg mixture—stored separately, refrigerated—for up to 1 day. The finished frittata can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 5 days.
—Lindsay Leopold
Ingredients
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4 tablespoons
(½ stick) unsalted butter
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8 ounces
(4 cups) mixed mushrooms, torn or cut into bite-size pieces (see note above on variety)
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1
medium shallot, thinly sliced
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1 tablespoon
thyme leaves, plus more for garnish
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kosher salt, to taste
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cracked black pepper, to taste
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12
large eggs
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1/3 cup
milk, preferably whole
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1/4 cup
chives, chopped, plus more for garnish
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4 ounces
goat cheese, broken into 1-inch pieces, divided
Directions
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Heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the top third position. Melt the butter in a 10-inch oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring once, until they start to release moisture, 3 to 4 minutes.
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Add the shallot and thyme leaves; season with salt and pepper. Cook until the mushrooms are browned in places and the shallot is softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer one-third of the mushroom mixture to a small plate or bowl (for topping, optional).
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Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and milk with a fork until well-combined. Whisk in the chives, ½ teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Reduce heat to medium and pour the egg mixture into the skillet. Add half the goat cheese. Cook, stirring slowly with a spatula to create large curds, until the eggs are mostly set but still wet and shiny on top, about 3 minutes.
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Remove from heat and scrape the edges of the skillet with the spatula, pressing gently into an even circle. Sprinkle with the reserved mushroom mixture and remaining goat cheese, pressing down gently into the eggs. Transfer to the oven and bake until puffed and eggs are just set with no wet spots, 8 to 10 minutes.
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Loosen from the skillet and slide the frittata onto a cutting board. Let stand for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with more herbs for garnish.
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