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Prep time
10 minutes
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Cook time
14 minutes
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Serves
2
Author Notes
This is a “crab” dish with no crab.
As is often the case, most of these culinary origin stories sit somewhere between historical fact and mythical folklore. But the story goes that somewhere between 110 and 160 years ago, Dowager Empress Cixi had a sudden hankering for crab. As the de facto ruler of China in the late Qing dynasty, her court was in Beijing, far from the sea. Which is to say that crab was not readily available. The imperial chef on duty, as it goes, then invented this dish to imitate the texture and sweetness of crab, interestingly with little more than eggs.
As time passed, this dish is now better known as a Shanghainese dish, where chefs further south have perfected its presentation. The bulk of the dish is made from velveted egg whites: egg whites emulsified with starch and cooked at a low temperature until they fluff up into little clouds that look like delicate crab claws. The egg yolks are in fact intensely savory salted egg yolks that turn powdery like cooked crab roe. The entire dish is then drizzled with a vinegar sauce similar to that served with Shanghai’s famous hairy crab, to echo its imitation. Some iterations of this recipe, indeed, have come full circle and include real crab in the stir-fry, though it is omitted here, for dramatic effect.
Despite the origins of this dish as a form of imitation crab, I find this dish to be quite a nuanced exploration of texture; all in all, this is quite a technical dish. Which explains why I’ve chosen to include the primary technique, “velveting,” into the English translation of the dish. Elsewhere, this dish may be translated in English as “scrambled egg whites ” or “mock crab,” which belies the elegance and skill behind developing this dish.
—Lucas Sin
Test Kitchen Notes
- This is not a dish that should be eaten as an entree on its own, but a complement to any Chinese family-style dinner.
-The garnishes are optional as they’re traditional to the presentation of this dish but they’re absolutely not necessary. The scallops are to punctuate the seafood flavor (I can spy a “secret” recipe here of how to pick and deal with dried scallops). The broccoli is for color and texture.
—Lucas Sin
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Velvet Egg White “Crab”
Ingredients
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FOR THE CRAB VINEGAR:
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3 tablespoons
45 grams) Zhenjiang black vinegar
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1 tablespoon
(15 grams) light soy sauce
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1 1/2 tablespoons
(10 grams) white sugar
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1 teaspoon
(7 grams) honey
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1/2-inch
knob fresh ginger (about ½ ounce; 15 grams), diced finely
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FOR THE EGG YOLK MIXTURE:
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1 teaspoon
Shaoxing wine
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1/2 teaspoon
kosher salt
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1 teaspoon
rice vinegar
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2
salted duck egg yolks, mashed
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FOR THE VELVET EGG WHITE
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3 tablespoons
(45 grams) neutral oil
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6
egg whites
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2
egg yolks
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1/2 cup
(90 grams) whole milk or evaporated milk
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1 teaspoon
cornstarch or potato starch
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1/2 teaspoon
(3 grams) kosher salt
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1/2 teaspoon
(2 grams) white sugar
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1 pinch
ground white pepper
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FOR GARNISH (OPTIONAL):
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1
head of broccoli, broken into florets, stem reserved for another recipe
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25 grams
(about 10 pieces) dried scallops, soaked for at least 30 minutes or overnight and steamed until soft.
Directions
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First make the crab vinegar. In a small bowl, combine the black vinegar, cold water, and white sugar, and honey, and mix until fully dissolved. Add the ginger and infuse for at least 5 minutes.
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Make the egg yolks: Into the 2 egg yolks, add mashed salted egg yolks, Shaoxing wine, rice vinegar, and kosher salt, and mix well. In a skillet or wok, heat a generous amount of oil–enough to cover the bottom about ¼-inch–until shimmering. Add the egg yolk mixture into the oil and scramble, pushing the mixture back and forth continuously until fully cooked and a little powdery. Remove from the pan and set aside.
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Now, make the velvet egg white: Whisk the egg whites to break up clumps of egg white but stop short of foaming the mixture. Add in the milk, starch, salt, sugar, and white pepper. Whisk the mixture until well combine and entirely emulsified. In a clean skillet or wok, cover the bottom of a layer of oil, about 1-inch. Heat the pan over medium heat until shimmering. Pour the egg white mixture into the pan and immediately begin pushing the mixture around, continually flipping and mixing as the egg begins to scramble. As the curds begin to float and form, they should be light and glossy and pick up no color at all. Continue to cook, about a total of 30 seconds until all the curds are set. Immediately remove with a spider and set aside to drain.
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Optionally, prepare the garnishes. For the broccoli by blanching it: prepare an ice bath. Bring a large salted pot of water–about 1½ teaspoons of salt per quart of water–to a rolling boil. Immerse the broccoli florets into the water and blanch for about 45 seconds until the broccoli is bright green. Immediately remove the broccoli and immerse in the water bath. Drain and set aside. For the scallops, stir-fry the soaked and steamed scallops in a pan with a tablespoon of oil until aromatic. Drain and set aside.
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Finally, assemble the dish. If using, set the broccoli florets into a ring. In the center, place the velveted egg whites. Scatter the cooked egg yolks and optional shredded scallops over the top of the egg whites. Drizzle the crab vinegar over the top. Serve warm, preferably in concert with a table full of other braises, stir-fries, and Shanghainese delights.
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