First, a confession: I used to hate scrambled eggs. They reminded me of sulfur-infused cardboard. Or insulation. To be fair, my mother's eggs were never dry, but I was so traumatized by the scrambled eggs I encountered everywhere else that I refused to eat even hers growing up.
Shop the Story
Years later, I learned how to make creamy, soft scrambled eggs, and now I crave them regularly. The recipe below hinges on a toned-down version of a technique I learned in cooking school involving the use of a double-boiler and whisking the eggs non-stop for about 40 minutes, which I promise I won't subject you to here. But low and slow is the key, as is constant stirring and scraping. I'm usually not a proponent of non-stick cookware (too easily scratched), but in this case, I'm a fan.
Good, free-range eggs are also paramount, for both taste and safety reasons, and they require very little embellishment: I add a small lump of mascarpone or creme fraiche, a dribble of cream, or whatever is around (not milk, which makes them tough), a dash of salt and pepper and nothing else. But I do believe that excellent scrambled eggs need to be cooked in butter -- even in a non-stick pan -- and while we're on the subject, salted butter is my preference. The recipe makes enough for two people, but I usually get it all to myself, as I'm married to someone who is egg averse -- what's more, leftovers can be gently reheated in the microwave, and they still won't remind you of cardboard!
Soft Scrambled Eggs
4 large free-range or organic eggs
1 tablespoons mascarpone, creme fraiche, cream, what have you
Dash of salt and freshly ground pepper, plus more for serving
Knob of salted butter
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, mascarpone, salt and pepper. Be thorough, but don't worry if there are little bits of mascarpone flecking the egg.
2. Heat a large, non-stick skillet over a medium-low flame. Add the butter and wait until it melts before adding the egg. If the egg starts to cook right away, turn the heat as low as it will go. Using a wooden spatula or spoon, stir the eggs constantly, scraping the bottom of the pan all over in a long, continuous motion. Do this for about 10 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary (raise it a little if the egg touching the pan isn't cooking at all; lower it if it starts to cook quickly or look at all dry).
3. Pull the eggs off the heat when they're still a little custardy-looking, but not runny -- they'll cook a bit more as you pile them onto your plate. Divide the eggs among two warm plates and serve immediately, with toast if you like, and more ground black pepper.
A New Way to Dinner, co-authored by Food52's founders Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs, is an indispensable playbook for stress-free meal-planning (hint: cook foundational dishes on the weekend and mix and match ‘em through the week).