Italian

Where Should Our Editor Go in Rome?

by:
August 20, 2015

We've been telling you our favorite spots, but now it's your turn to play tour guide. Where should Ali go in Rome?

Our Associate Editor Ali will be going to Rome for vacation and, because it's Rome, she knows there might be a thing or two worth writing about. So she wants to know (in the comments): Where should she go, eat, shop, sit, drink? Here are things of particular interest:

  • Places that are impossible to find
  • Drinks in coupes
  • Campari
  • Cheese
  • Espresso
  • Local junk food
  • Local fruits and vegetables
  • Bargains
  • Old stuff
  • Things that smell good
  • Plants
  • Places just outside of Rome

Grazie mille!

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • Tamar Krichevsky
    Tamar Krichevsky
  • Terry tarantino
    Terry tarantino
  • Walksofitaly
    Walksofitaly
  • sage
    sage
  • Leith Devine
    Leith Devine
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53 Comments

Tamar K. October 2, 2015
Casperia in the Sabina region. Take an olive oil tour with Johnny Madge (http://www.johnnymadge.com/viewpage.php?page_id=1) Your annual EVO expenditure will increase, but it worth it.
 
Terry T. September 28, 2015
One of the finest restaurants in all of Italy is near Termini...Agata e Romeo and just tell them I sent you...closed on Sunday
 
Walksofitaly August 27, 2015
We're happy to host her on a food tour. Top rated Walks of Italy provides multiple culinary tour options in Rome. Shoot us an email at [email protected] and we'll be happy to oblige.
 
sage August 26, 2015
Pizzeria "Dar Poeta" is life changing. go early, there will be a line of locals waiting out the door.
 
sage August 26, 2015
address: Via Barletta 27
 
sage August 26, 2015
very near the vatican there is a little bakery in a basement that you almost wouldn't see called Dolce Maniera i believe. on via barletta, near the ottaviano station. they have a pastry that looks like a crunchy seashell- called a sfogliatelle napoletana- just amazing
 
Leith D. August 24, 2015
Take a guided Vatican tour early in the morning to miss the crowds. We have used What A Life tours and their guides are very knowledgeable. Go to Pizzarium for some of the best pizza you've ever had. By the Trevi fountain, go to a very small restaurant called La Prosciuttoria. They have amazing cured meat/cheese platters served on wood cutting boards, and they serve amazing porchetta sandwiches. If you need a great small place to stay go to Hotel Deko Rome. It's near the Spanish steps and Marco and Serena will take care of any request. They'll become your lifelong friends too!
 
Pamela S. August 23, 2015
Rustic and homey spot we fall in love with three years ago: Taberna di Grecci
 
alme August 23, 2015
Campo dei Fiori--In addition to the farmers market, there's a great bakery featuring traditional Roman style pizza and a food shop with typical cheese/charcuterie.
 
dymnyno August 23, 2015
Two years ago we drove to Norcia which is about 2 hours from Rome (+-). It's a special little town in Umbria that specializes in Charcuterie. It is served at all restaurants, cafes and deli shops breakfast, lunch and for dinner. I have been to Italy many times and it is one of my all time favorite places. It is surrounded by a National Park.
 
Jassy August 23, 2015
Also La Cannoleria Siciliana is great for cannoli!
 
Jassy August 23, 2015
In the Testaccio neighborhood there is a street food type place called Trapizzino, they serve little corners of bread filled with various meat sauces and it is absolutely amazing. Via Giovanni Branca, 88.

For gelato there is fatamorgana that has several locations and very interesting flavors. Gelateria dei gracchi for traditional flavors.

Also in Testaccio is the Macro museum with a very cool bamboo structure you can climb.
 
michelle August 23, 2015
Da Enzo Al 29
https://instagram.com/explore/locations/224920768/
for a beautiful and affordable meal in Trastevere !
 
michelle August 23, 2015
Capranica Enoteca E Taverna for a late night dinner and bottle of red :)
 
KT August 23, 2015
Just outside the centre (but not far from Termini) is the very up-and-coming neighborhood of Pigneto where many young, cool Romans choose to hang out. Some of the hotspots include COSO for the some of the best cocktails in town, Necci for a great outdoor aperitivo, Birra + for craft beers and Pepper Restaurant for Roman cooking with a modern twist.
 
Alejandro August 22, 2015
Antica Pesa for dinner, in trastevere.
 
PRST August 22, 2015
Spend an afternoon with my friends Giovanni and Annie from Scoteroma on a Vepsa tour. They'll take you to the best places (where the locals go....) for a coffee, gelato and whatever else you want. You'll see the city in a totally different way- just like a local. Way to much fun too......
Do not miss this experience. Plain and simple. Tell them I sent you. Tell them you love food. :) http://scooteroma.com Check out the website!
 
Diana August 22, 2015
Le Fate in Trastevere is fantastic. The chef (Andrea) offers cooking classes, too. I did it with my mom while studying in Rome and it was an awesome experience that we are still talking about. He specializes in authentic traditional Roman dishes. The carbonara is fantastic and my barometer for all others.
 
Deb T. August 22, 2015
For a great, easy 1/2 day trip -- Go to Ostia Antica; 30 minute train ride and you are transported to an ancient town, abandoned when the river changed it's course. For art - Borghese Gallery and the lovely Villa grounds.
 
Eileen A. August 22, 2015
Vino do Spirito in Trastevere is excellent slow food, with a wine cellar that pre-dates the Colisseum, which you are allowed to explore. Trattoria die Fori Imperiali has the BEST cacio e Pepe ever. They add Tartufo. Oh boy!!
 
Joe S. August 22, 2015
There's a great little restaurant near the Trevi Fountain called That's Amore'. Great food but importantly, they offer cooking classes which are fantastic! Also, take a nighttime tour of the Coliseum. Walks of Italy offers a great tour.
 
dymnyno August 21, 2015
Near the Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino the La Posta Vecchio hotel is located in Ladispoli; it's a 5 star, 1 michelin star, former home of J Paul Getty and is truly a grand hotel. It faces the sea and a famous ancient villa. It is a vacation in its own right, but is also convenient if you have an early morning flight...no traffic and minutes to the airport. I am staying at a country home nearby in mid September and my hostess has arranged visits to Brunello Cuccineli, the new Antinori winery, and the newly restored Pazzi Chapel in San Croce (Florence) one of the most important works of Filippo Brunelleschi.
 
Charlotte August 21, 2015
Just got back from visiting Italy, spent 4 days in Rome and would HIGHLY recommend Sant'Eustachio (Piazza di Sant'Eustachio, 82, Roma, Italy.) It's featured in a couple tourist guides but rightfully so (just get there early as to avoid hoards of in-the-know tourists.) I don't drink cappuccino, so I can't help you there, but the espresso and shakerato were outstanding--seriously, the crema on the espresso was unlike anything I found while in Italy. The coffee was incredibly smooth, absolutely delicious! Went back twice. The baked goods are good as well. As for really good traditional Roman cooking, a friend of ours who has lived in Rome for the past 15 years recommended La Fraschetta Romanesca (Via Tacito, 54/a, 00193 Roma, Italy.) It was worth the hike from where we were staying; I suggest trying the Arrabiata or Cacio e Pepe...a friend of ours tried the rabbit and loved it. Definitely a locals spot.

 
heather H. August 21, 2015
While living in London and working at a hoteI, I befriended quite a few Italians and my Roman friend, and chef, Paolo told me of a place not to be missed: Agustarello Via Giovanni Branca 100, +39 06 574 6585. It is closed on Mondays so plan accordingly. It is in Testaccio. My friend and I had the Ravioli and it's been well over a decade and I still think longingly about that meal. If I could do it again, I would have ordered all pasta and forgotten about a proper entrée or dessert. And for me to opt out on dessert is a statement!
 
Debra C. August 21, 2015
Yay! I leave for Italy today and will be in Rome in a week so this is perfect timing. I'm going to piggy-back on all these recommendations. A couple things I'm definitely doing are a "cooking with Nonna" class and a family-style dinner with eatwith.com. I can't wait to hit up Testaccio and to shop in Monti. Oh, and to eat ALL the gelato. Have a great trip Ali!
 
Joy H. August 21, 2015
These have already been mentioned, but I second the Protestant Cemetery, Knights of Malta keyhole, and the nearby Giardino degli Aranci. Gelateria del Teatro for the cutest shop and best gelato. My favorite church in Rome is the Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri--used to be the Baths of Diocletian before being turned into a basilica designed by Michelangelo.
 
BDAtlanta August 21, 2015
Someone mentioned this earlier "Museum of Roman Civilization out in the EUR neighborhood."

This is still closed for "eventual" renovation.
 
RayS August 21, 2015
If you are looking for a short trip outside of Rome I would suggest the U.S. military Cemetery in Nettuno. It is not Normandy but still very moving. https://www.abmc.gov/cemeteries-memorials/europe/sicily-rome-american-cemetery#.VdcYdcT3aK0
 
Ishtar August 21, 2015
Best pizza and amazing Suppli, Pizzeria ai Marmi (Viale di Trastevere, 53/57)

 
Heather August 21, 2015
On the west side of Piazza Navona is Il Corallo. Of all the restaurants I went to over the course of five years, theirs is the only business card I brought home.

Also, if you're able to get in, the Villa Giulia across from the American Academy, it's a beautiful, old property.
 
Elana B. August 21, 2015
Grana Fruta e Farina -- BEST quick pizza stop near the Spanish Step, with the best pesto we had in Rome
 
Genevieve August 21, 2015
I lived in Rome for 3 years and agree that Testaccio is the best, best neighborhood for real Roman food. Flavio al Velavevodetto is great for the Roman classics and don't miss the tiramisu. Also in Testaccio is Da Remo, a delicious pizzeria that is always packed and has typical brusque Roman service. A little outside of the center, my favorite pizzeria was La Gatta Mangiona -- book ahead.
For a great Roman beer experience (craft beer is on the rise there!) go to Open Baladin, which has an awesome selection of Italian beers. Nearby is Il Forno Campo de' Fiori, which has unbeatable pizza slices to take away.
for drinks: i tre scalini in monti is packed on weekends and full of locals and non-locals. salotto 42 for cocktails or the jerry thomas project for a speakeasy experience.
gelato: fata morgana in monti or la romana -- there are two locations. go to the one in testaccio after a meal at porto fluviale.
and for not-so-hidden hidden spots, go to the orange garden and the keyhole up on top of aventino hill (if you've seen la grande bellezza, you know about the keyhole!).
also...get elizabeth minchilli's eat rome app -- everything you need is in there organized by neighborhood/food type/whatever.
enjoy, my mouth is watering just writing this post!
 
Diana August 21, 2015
You can't stay in Rome and skip Trastevere. My tip is to be there early in the morning and start your day with a breakfast at Sicilia e Duci in Viale Trastevere or Baylon Café in Via San Francesco a Ripa, then enter the narrow and sunny paths and be sure your attention will be catched by shops, markets, bars all around. You can stop at Samovar café bistrot for a light meal or aperitivo, then move to Ditirambo restaurant near Campo de' Fiori. Others suggestions are trapizzino in Testaccio, where they invented a cross between rustic pizza and tramezzino (italian club sandwich) with homemade fillings like meatballs sauce and others grandma's tricks. Always by the river but in the north, aperitivo at the magick bar, an enchanted garden, and dinner at Il Lupercale near Ponte Milvio. As someone already said, Villa D'este in Tivoli opens at night on friday and saturday until 12th september, you should not miss it! ;-)
 
Maddison C. August 21, 2015
BAR DEL CAPPUCCINO. The best cappuccino I have ever had, served by a truly inspiring 60+ year-old Roman barista who wears a bow tie and a thick juicy moustache. There are framed pictures on the wall that suggest he was Italo-famous in the 80s (unconfirmed).

Meanwhile, his daughter churns out pastrami toasted sandwiches that rival Katz's. Seriously.

So good was this pastrami and this cappuccino that I had each of them nearly every single day I was in Rome (despite hot milk and meat-filled bread not being that great a combo). They do these two things SO WELL that I didn't bother trying anything else. Do yourself a favour and give it a go... They might not be super tourist-friendly (no English) on your first visit, but by the third time I went they had saved a seat for me at the counter. It's that good.
 
AlainB August 21, 2015
I visited a year ago and went on a foodie tour with Katie Parla. She was terrific, took us to some out of the way places. I especially remember Bonci's Pizzarium, not too far from the Vatican. She's got a food blog and even a Rome foodie app, I highly recommend checking it out: http://www.katieparla.com/
 
notoriousBiC August 21, 2015
I second this recommendation.
 
Kara G. August 21, 2015
Enoteca Regionale Palatium - wines, cheeses, meats & cuisine from the Lazio region. Near the Spanish Steps. Had 2 great experiences there; they know there product & have a good kitchen, too.
 
Andy August 20, 2015
If you have time and are interested in history, go to the Museum of Roman Civilization out in the EUR neighborhood. The whole area (a bit out of the way, but accessible by the subway) was designed and built by Mussolini and his followers, it's creepy and interesting all at the same time. Anyway, the museum has lots of scale models of Rome throughout history, and interesting artifacts, it's a great museum.

Also, Duecentogradi for sandwiches and Freni i Frizioni for aperitivo. And I second the recommendation for Flavio al Velavevodetto, the amatriciana and carbonara are the best.
 
Ali S. August 20, 2015
You guys, this is great! Keep the good tips comin' (and then let's write a guidebook).
 
Rick August 20, 2015
Oh, and Testaccio takes its name from a huge hill in the centre of the neighbourhood which is effectively a vast dump of broken amphora pots which accumulated in Roman times. Later on, wine makers took advantage if its thermal effects and built stores deep into the hillside. It's definitely worth visiting some of the restaurants that now occupy these stores, especially in summer as they are naturally cool.
 
Rick August 20, 2015
The foodie district of Rome is Testaccio - an old blue collar neighbourhood close to the centre but off the tourist trail. I stayed there earlier this year, and the food is most excellent. The historic food market is great for regional specialties, Volpetti is an absolutely fabulous deli (with the neighbouring take-out, which sources its ingredients from Volpetti, producing the best pizza I ever tasted - such quality! - as well as amazing antipasti: try the octopus). Also in this neighbourhood is the birth place of the Trapizzino - cones of focaccia stuffed with different fillings, like boar stew - and the vast Eataly food centre is round the corner at the railway station. But just meander too, as there is plenty more to find!

If eating ice cream in Rome, seek out the authentic stuff: duller colours, not fluffed up into mountains and not adorned with fruit. May look less spectacular, but it will be small batch, tradionally made, very fresh and taste amazing. The show-off stuff is all factory produced and full of additives.
 
Tasty P. August 20, 2015
The best coffee, hands down, is served at a very old cafe by Piazza Navona called Caffe St. Estacchio. Order a caffe and they will whip you a sweet, frothy delicacy you will not find anywhere else in the world. Across the street a cute chocolate shop (if still open) sells the weirdest chocolate concoctions I have ever seen. Have fun!
 
Exbruxelles August 20, 2015
Have a drink at the rooftop bar of the Hotel Minerva and watch the sun go down over the rooftops of Rome. It's incredibly romantic. For a completely different experience, don't miss the Capucin Crypt. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_della_Concezione_dei_Cappuccini . You can easily walk to Harry's Bar from here and, let's face it, you may need a drink.
 
elevi1022 August 20, 2015
Dar Poeta - nutella ricotta crepe.

Porta Portese flea market
 
JEE August 20, 2015
Don't miss Villa d'este outside Rome...perfect place for a picnic!
 
Samantha W. August 21, 2015
I LOVE Villa D'Este. So gorgeous.
 
cratecooking August 20, 2015
Ristorante Spirito di Vino in the Jewish Ghetto! The building it's in has INCREDIBLE history. It was a synagogue nearly 2,000 years ago and the front door is where the mikveh stood. The underground wine cellar is humbling, to say the least, when you go down there and realize it's practically ancient. They also have a pork dish on the menu that was originally created by Julius Caesar's chef.
 
Mary August 20, 2015
There's a small kosher bakery in the Jewish Quarter (I forget the street) that has great baked goods made with olive oil... It's on a corner, not far from the large synagogue...
 
PattersonCooks August 20, 2015
Flavio al Velavevodetto

MUST MUST go to this restaurant. best food we had and all locals
 
Courtney C. August 20, 2015
Rome is one of my favorite cities. If you want a great treat go to La Casa Del Caffè Tazza D'oro near the Pantheon and order a granita di caffè, which is basically a frozen shot of sugary espresso topped (or sandwiched, your choice) with amazing fresh whipped cream. Definitely grab a slice of pizza patate (sold by weight at most pizza lunch spots) - it will blow your mind with how simple and delicious it is. Indulging in Cacio e Pepe is another absolute must. It's a simple dish pasta with Pecorino Romano and coarse black pepper. My favorite is at Ristorante Venerina on the Borgo Pio near the Vatican. I am in total agreement with Emily about Ostia Antica - the ruins are amazing and there are so few visitors so you really get to do some exploring. A more difficult set of ruins to find is the Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa - the famed Roman emperor's home) about 20 minutes from Rome. Ask your concierge the best way to get there - I used this website (https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/tivolis-roman-villas), but I'm not sure the information is still accurate. One more place to definitely see is the Protestant Cemetery (Cimitero Acattolico). It is a beautiful, peaceful place and easy to reach by subway. Keats and Shelley are buried there and a commune of adorable cats prowls the grounds (they are well cared-for). Please have a wonderful time!!
 
BDAtlanta August 20, 2015
The underground and 3rd level tour of the Colosseum.
 
Emily S. August 20, 2015
I studied abroad in Rome, which means I spent 4 months eating everything. For the best pizza al taglio I had, head to Pizzarium in the Prati district. For a traditional Italian grocery/deli experience, Il Volpetti is the neatest lite store. Ask the to make you a panino with whatever they feel like. Don't question what's in it and enjoy. I studied classics and love all things ancient, but Rome can feel a little crowded at times. I cannot recommend enough heading to Ostia Antica just outside of Rome. It was the port of Rome in antiquity and now the site is wonderfully preserved and little known by tourists. It is a great place to picnic, which is a plus! I'm infinitely jealous, have so much fun!
 
Jimmy H. August 20, 2015
Pizzeria Florida in the Argentine Square, Roman pizza at it's best. Squash blossom, eggplant tomato, and margarita were my favorites there, and extremely reasonably priced. Gioliti Gelatoria, get the darkest chocolate gelato. Will ruin you for any other. Remember to pay first, then go get your scoop. Prego!