The cake, developed by pastry chef Nicholas Bonamico in the summer of 2015, is a nod to both the legalization of same sex marriage and the Italian tricolore cake. Though two years old, Bouchon’s cake is finding itself at the center of renewed attention after a particularly rainbow-friendly summer. And after all this talk of unicorn Frappuccinos and rainbow bagels, I welcome this cake with a poised thumb.
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The cake is truly a marvel to observe. The batter is simple (flour, butter, almond paste, eggs) but the result is decadent. Layers of primary color, in all their ROYGBIV splendor, rest delicately one above the other, interspersed with raspberry and apricot jam. On top is a plane of dusted chocolate, the dark final stop on an otherwise colorful affair.