If your acquaintance with whipping egg whites is limited to making crunchy meringue cookies, meringue shells, or Pavlovas (even gooey ones), you probably don’t worry much about over-whipping your egg whites. The quantity of sugar in these recipes reduces the likelihood of over-whipping, or at least, renders the problem less critical.
But cakes and tortes and mousses and other desserts that call for lightly sweetened (or unsweetened) whipped egg whites folded in for lightness and/or leavening are a whole different ball game! Egg whites with little or no sugar are easy to over-whip, and doing so can make the difference between a dense mousse or torte, perfect or so-so—a dessert that’s pretty good compared with one that’s spectacular. Why not aspire to spectacular?
Even if you don’t recognize them in the mixer bowl, over-beaten egg whites become tauntingly obvious when you fold them. Instead of blending into the batter, over-whipped whites form stubborn, dry clumps. When clumps persist despite your best efforts to fold, you may be tempted to do what you know you shouldn’t do: mix, stir, smear, or mash—whatever it takes to get that dry white foam incorporated into the batter.
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Instead of going there, you can learn to fix the problem before it messes up your mousses or tanks your tortes.
How to Fix Overbeaten Egg Whites
Good baking technique (you’ve seen this in recipes) usually calls for folding a small portion of whipped egg whites into a batter before folding in the rest. We do this to lighten a heavier batter so that we can fold the rest of the whites in more easily and without deflating them or the batter. This same protocol can help you spot over- or under-beaten egg whites—so you can fix them before you complete the recipe. To make it work, you must use a completely clean spatula to scoop the first addition of egg whites from the mixer bowl into the batter—keeping the egg whites free of grease or batter in case you need to beat them again. (No matter how many years I’ve been working with egg whites and how confident I am, I always grab a clean spatula here—just in case!)
Here’s how it goes: After whipping your egg whites, use a clean spatula to scrape 1/4 of the egg whites over the batter. Start folding—cutting through the egg whites with each stroke. Notice if the whites blend smoothly into the batter, or form dry clumps that resist blending. If clumps are stubborn, egg whites are over beaten. Fix the remaining egg whites like this: Add a fresh egg white to the remaining whites in the mixer bowl and whip for a couple of seconds—just to remoisten the foam and make it supple enough to fold. Don’t overdo it or the egg whites will become over whipped again! Fold all of the remoistened egg whites into the batter and proceed with the recipe as directed.
Sometimes, after folding the first addition of egg whites into a batter, you might wish you had beaten them a little longer to begin with. You can go ahead and whip the remaining whites for a few extra seconds without adding an extra egg white. Just know that under-whipped is always better than over-whipped whites. Less is more: if in doubt, stop whipping.
Mastering egg whites comes with years of baking experience. The technique for fixing over whipped whites will help you learn. Meanwhile, it’s an insurance policy—one that I still use after decades of baking!
What issues have you run into with egg whites? Let us know in the comments!
My career was sparked by a single bite of a chocolate truffle, made by my Paris landlady in 1972. I returned home to open this country’s first chocolate bakery and dessert shop, Cocolat, and I am often “blamed” for introducing chocolate truffles to America. Today I am the James Beard Foundation and IACP award-winning author of ten cookbooks, teach a chocolate dessert class on Craftsy.com, and work with some of the world’s best chocolate companies. In 2018, I won the IACP Award for Best Food-Focused Column (this one!).
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