This recipe is a sneak peek from our new Simply Genius cookbook—the third in the best-selling Genius family, with the simplest, most rule-breaking recipes yet.
Five-minute tomato sauce sounds like it could very well be a cheat, a gimmick, or an outright lie.
But when Heidi Swanson—founder of the beloved blog 101 Cookbooks and author of the Super Natural series of cookbooks—writes a five-minute tomato sauce, calling it the “little black dress of my cooking repertoire,” I trust. And I try it—and it’s bright and fresh and alive, despite barely cooking.
Who needs cooking though?Photo by James Ransom. Food Stylist: Anna Billingskog. Prop Stylist: Molly FitzSimons.
Then I scrutinize exactly how she does it, so I can commit it to memory:
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“This is exactly how I've made my favorite, basic marinara (except for the lemon zest) for years . . . but in the past few years, I've been using the Instant Pot . . . . . saute high setting until the garlic is just lightly golden (sliced garlic, that is) and then I add the crushed tomatoes (Trader Joe's latest iteration, with fire roasted tomatoes, is superb). As soon as it starts to bubble and pop, I switch to the "warm" setting, on high, and then let it murmur gently until ready to use. Glad to see this recipe in the book! ;o)
P.S. I now make at least double and sometimes triple batches, freezing the extra in those marvelous Souper Cubes freezer storage blocks that I got from Food52. I add fresh oregano, finely chopped, when I have it in my garden (April through November, surprisingly) a few minutes before serving. If scaling up and freezing, I recommend not adding the zest until just before serving, as it will lose much of its brilliance when frozen. ”
The cold pan: Rather than heating the oil first till it shimmers, then adding the garlic and seasonings, like we’re so often told to do, Heidi pours them all into a cold saucepan together, stirring over the heat until they start to sizzle and smell good. This little move extracts loads of flavor without burning, and takes all of 45 seconds.
The tomato shortcut: She calls for canned crushed tomatoes, which are already essentially in sauce form, stirs them into the punchy olive oil, then just heats them through. More precious minutes, maybe even hours, saved.
The secret ingredient: In a last swipe of brilliance, she grates in the zest of a lemon, which jolts the tomatoes to life without tasting more acidic or even perceptibly lemony.
But I will turn to it in different moments. When I have 45 minutes and want to let everything blub along on the stove, then end up with a sauce that’s sweet, rich, and purely tomato, I’ll make Marcella’s.
When I want something a little feistier and more savory, to quickly layer onto a pizza or lasagna or eggplant parm—especially when I have no time at all—Heidi's is it.
As I worked on the Simply Genius cookbook over the past four years, it was these types of recipes that I unexpectedly needed most—as I molded my cooking around a new baby, then pandemic lockdowns, then a move across the country (then moving two more times).
The recipes in this book—which started out aimed at beginners, and turned out to be just as vital for busy, curious cooks like me—buoyed me through the gauntlet of the past few years, and, most importantly, brought me and my family joy.
Got a Genius recipe to share—from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at genius@food52.com—thank you to Food52er healthierkitchen for this one!
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From our new podcast network, The Genius Recipe Tapes is lifelong Genius hunter Kristen Miglore’s 10-year-strong column in audio form, featuring all the uncut gems from the weekly column and video series. Subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts so you don’t miss out.
I'm an ex-economist, lifelong-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007, before returning to the land of Dutch Crunch bread and tri-tip barbecues in 2020. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."
I laughed with delight when I tasted this sauce. I was dubious about canned tomatoes and a 2-minute simmer time. I used really good organic tomatoes, and did let them simmer an extra couple of minutes but definitely not more than 5 mins total after adding them in. I ended up whisking the sauce to get the tomatoes and oil combined because my wooden spoon seemed to just chase the oil around the pan. The sauce is quite arrabiata with just one tsp of crushed red pepper. I waited all week to make this and now realize it’s a meal I can make even after a long day of work. Thanks for this wonderful recipe!
So many recipes call for red pepper flakes. They’re great but may I suggest trying Aleppo pepper? It doesn’t deliver as much heat - that’s a plus for me - but you can always get more heat with a little cayenne or siracha type sauce. The Aleppo has a much more complex flavor.
I hate negative comments, but cooking side by side in a kitchen with a mother that was a magician, this is an absolute no. I hear her sayingbthat this sauce it’s raw! She would sauté A fresh tomato in garlic and oil, and tossed that with spaghetti! Don’t forget the salt! Beyond delicious.
I hear you but don’t dismiss this recipe because it’s different from what you used to. I made my fourth batch of the sauce today. It’s quick, easy and full of fresh flavor. It’s a HUGE hit at my house!
I love the Cento crushed tomato’s which I buy at Walmart for a good price. They are my go to for Tomato soup that I make often once it gets below 90 here in the desert. This brand is my favorite I’ve tried them all and Cento is consistently flavorful aren’t crushed into oblivion. whole or crushed there’s at least one can in my pantry at all times. If Traders Joe’s was closer I would buy their too.
Thank you for the excellent presentation. I love the idea of the lemon zest to brighten the sauce and can't wait to try it! My only suggestion is to avoid canned tomatoes that have a white lining. That usually indicates the presence of bisphenol A which is an endocrine disruptor linked to cancer. Here is some info gleaned from https://www.nrdc.org/: BPA is a synthetic hormone disruptor that can block or magnify the action of our own natural hormones, ie estrogen. BPA may also upset the normal development of babies and young children.
Thanks so much, Maryanne—I'm always looking for glass jars these days, but they're not always easy to come by (though Food52's pantry line is about to come out with some, just not crushed—yet). The Bianco brand also makes delicious organic crushed tomatoes.
This seems like a fairly typical sort of don't-feel -like-cooking winter sauce that most cooks have in their repertoire, or improvise for the occasion. They can be pretty good with really high quality tomatoes, such as Muti. You generally get better tomatoes in the whole canned tomatoes than the crushed or diced, but some are pretty good. Whether your pan is cold or warm, it's just common sense not to have it hot enough to scorch your garlic. Lemon oil is ph neutral, and I see no reason to suspect that the rest of the zest has any particular acidity. I've never understood the widespread use of red pepper flakes in some Italian dishes, and I don't really remember them appearing much in the older cook books; there are so many more interesting peppers to use, and if you only want heat cayenne seems more to the point. With fresh sauces, I like to add the garlic and some sort of sweet red pepper, such as Carmen (or even a red bell) to the tomatoes when I cook them prior to running through the food mill, I love the flavor with tomato, but I don't know that there's any tradition of it in Italian cooking.
Starting garlic - and for that matter, any finely chopped/minced alliums - in a cold pan is the best way to keep them from scorching before they've released their flavors.
Kristen, I love your humility. My only tip or trick is that you should run cold water in your sink to keep the PVC drain from loosening from the heat of the boiling pasta water. Do you constantly have slow leaks under the sink?
In the Food52 shop. I have one. Although the lid isn't as tight as I expected, it's still a good saucepan. https://food52.com/shop/products/7701-five-two-essential-cookware
This is exactly how I've made my favorite, basic marinara (except for the lemon zest) for years . . . but in the past few years, I've been using the Instant Pot . . . . . saute high setting until the garlic is just lightly golden (sliced garlic, that is) and then I add the crushed tomatoes (Trader Joe's latest iteration, with fire roasted tomatoes, is superb). As soon as it starts to bubble and pop, I switch to the "warm" setting, on high, and then let it murmur gently until ready to use. Glad to see this recipe in the book! ;o) P.S. I now make at least double and sometimes triple batches, freezing the extra in those marvelous Souper Cubes freezer storage blocks that I got from Food52. I add fresh oregano, finely chopped, when I have it in my garden (April through November, surprisingly) a few minutes before serving. If scaling up and freezing, I recommend not adding the zest until just before serving, as it will lose much of its brilliance when frozen.
Great point about adding the lemon before serving, not before freezing—thank you, AJ!
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