There are a surprising number of ways a sheet-pan dinner can go wrong.
Some ingredients might stay raw while others char; their flavors and textures can blur into a singular mush. Or, in avoiding all that, they might sneak in so many steps and bowls that the sheet-pan feels like a Trojan horse for a jumble of dishes in the sink.
Not making a jumble of dishes.Photo by James Ransom. Food Stylist: Anna Billingskog. Prop Stylist: Molly FitzSimons.
Since sheet-pan dinners took off circa 2015, I’ve seen it all (you, too?). I know that writing a truly easy, efficient, and—maybe trickiest—joyful one is an art.
How does Hetty eke out so much flavor and texture with little time or trouble? For starters, she puts two pantry superheroes—packaged Italian gnocchi and Chinese chili crisp—to work in unexpected ways.
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“We loved it! I improvised on the chili sauce with a garlic chili paste and added some chicken sausage. Great recipe for a change up and delightful result with the chewy gnocchi. I considered adding some sun dried tomatoes in oil but didn’t want to change the recipe too much - but I put it on the side and my husband really liked that addition. Thanks for posting! It will go on our rotation!”
Though the gnocchi package says to boil them for two minutes, Hetty instead tosses them straight on the sheet pan to puff and crisp in the oven. According to Hetty, this rebellious technique also works well with frozen or refrigerated ravioli, dumplings, and pierogies—as in her New York Times Cooking recipe with Brussels sprouts and kimchi that inspired this one—all without boiling first.
Instead of cloaking the gnocchi in only olive oil to roast, she stirs in a couple spoonfuls of chili crisp, like Fly By Jing’s, for heat and much more. “The spice is almost secondary to the other things that it adds, like texture and umami.” Hetty says. “And every time I talk about flavor, it comes from a place for me that I'm vegetarian and I've been a vegetarian a long time.”
While the gnocchi toasts, there’s just a bit more to do: Toss hunks of baby bok choy and scallions in more chili crisp and toasted sesame oil to pile into the pan for the last 10 minutes. And whisk more scallions into sour cream to drizzle over the hot, crispy gnocchi and bright greens in the pan. Dinner is done.
“For all working families, that's something that is so life changing,” Hetty told me. “To allow someone else to cook your dinner. And in this case, it's an oven and high heat.”
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I'm an ex-economist, lifelong-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007, before returning to the land of Dutch Crunch bread and tri-tip barbecues in 2020. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."
We loved it! I improvised on the chili sauce with a garlic chili paste and added some chicken sausage. Great recipe for a change up and delightful result with the chewy gnocchi. I considered adding some sun dried tomatoes in oil but didn’t want to change the recipe too much - but I put it on the side and my husband really liked that addition. Thanks for posting! It will go on our rotation!
I made this last night, following the recipe exactly and I’m sorry to say I found it to be surprisingly disappointing. Given the ingredients, I expected it to be way more flavourful…the sour cream drizzle was the only star.
Not crazy about this. It seemed an unusual mash-up so I thought maybe I'd be pleasantly surprised, but that didn't happen. I didn't have chili crisp so improvised on that front, but I don't think that was the problem. The sauce is delicious however and I'll use that again elsewhere. Also, I like learning about this method of cooking gnocchi.
I'm sorry to hear it, susanann—thanks for trying it out. I think the chili crisp is a pretty key ingredient for bringing so much umami and warmth (unless you're working with 3-year-old palates, see below), so I hope you'll give it a try if you find some.
How can I make this kid friendly? If leave the chili crisp out does it have any flavor at all? Or could I do ponzu or soy/sesame or something else not spicy?
Hi Andrea, thanks for your patience—the Fly By Jing chili crisp isn't very spicy, so you might be able to do the lesser amount and kids will still like it (if they can handle just a little heat). Or, for my toddler, I've made a separate smaller sheet pan without the chili crisp (though hopefully as she gets older I can gradually work it in).
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