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We're known to talk about the sadness of winter produce: the gnarly roots, the wilty leaves, the toughness of stalks and the thickness of skin. But nobody has it as bad as the cauliflower. It's white; it's squeaky; at the market, it's usually dirty. But what other vegetable, well, lets you do whatever you want to it? What other vegetable turns into fluffy soup, gets crispy and spiky and caramelized, turns into steaks or couscous or cream? Here are our favorite ways to use cauliflower this winter.