White Wine
(Almost) Everything You Should Know About Albariño’s Homeland, Rías Baixas
This Spanish region produces stellar white wines.
We’ve teamed up with D.O. Rías Baixas to highlight the region’s quality winemaking—in particular, we’re talkin’ all things Albariño.
Situated on the cool, Atlantic coast of Galicia in northwestern Spain, Rías Baixas is one of the wine and travel industry’s best-kept secrets—but lucky for you, we don’t gatekeep. A historic winemaking region, Rías Baixas is the home of Albariño, a superstar white variety. Elegant and food-friendly, the local Albariño variety is the flagship of Rías Baixas and a favorite among wine lovers and foodies alike.
Rías Baixas’ temperate, maritime climate comes from its long and beautiful coastline and estuaries. The name itself—Rías Baixas (pronounced Rí–us Bai–shas)—means “lower estuaries,” which speaks to the fjörd-like river system that keeps conditions cool and rainy, but also mildly sunny. This environment provides the perfect growing conditions for Albariño, which accounts for roughly 95 percent of the region’s plantings today. The area’s mineral-rich granite soils help nurture white grapes to develop crisp acidity and lush flavors like citrus, peach, and honeysuckle.
This region is divided into five sub-regions: Val do Salnés, O Rosal, Condado do Tea, Soutomaior, and Ribeira do Ulla, which are home to many different producers who have their own takes on the Albariño grape. Some use lees aging (extended contact with yeasts) to impart a rounder texture, while others focus on honing in on the linear acidity of the grape.
Whichever way it’s made, Albariño is one of the most food-friendly grapes around. The minerality and fresh acidity of the wine work just as well with the catch of the day as it does with crunchy spring rolls, crispy fried chicken, and even a Thanksgiving turkey. Below, we’ve chosen eight Albariños from Rías Baixas that you’ll want to seek out to really get a handle on all that the region has to offer, plus our favorite ideas for recipes to serve them with.
Located in the northwestern corner of Rías Baixas, Val do Salnés (nicknamed the birthplace of Albariño) features vines planted on a long stretch of coastline and is consequently the coolest and dampest area of the region. This is the oldest sub-zone with the most acreage under vine and the highest concentration of wineries. The soil is predominantly granite and slate, with the right balance of coolness and sunlight on the vines for the Albariño grape to thrive. It’s no wonder that two thirds of Rías Baixas wineries sit within the region’s borders. Albariño from this sub-region boasts notes of salinity and tart citrus flavors, with hints of mango and pineapple.
1. Granbazán
A classic Albariño with floral and citrus flavors, Granbazán Etiqueta Verde is a classic Albariño style that’s sure to please. This 40-year-old winery plants within proximity to the Atlantic to capture the ocean breeze and ensure a bright and lively acidity. Delicate lees aging helps round out the wine for a beautifully balanced finish. Pair with creamy pasta like this linguine dish with sardines, fennel, and tomato.
2. Paco & Lola
Paco & Lola is a popular winery made up of small family growers dedicated to sustainability. Known worldwide for its vivacious polka dot label and the style to match, Paco & Lola offers a delicious sparkling Albariño called Lola that has buttery and fruity notes, like a light peach tart. This brut sparkling white wine, a rare find in the Rías Baixas region, is full-bodied while retaining a lovely (and food-friendly) lightness. Pair with homemade spring rolls and good times.
3. Burgáns
Over 600 families in Rías Baixas grow grapes for the Burgáns label, a benchmark of the region with a loyal following. Burgáns is a great place to start if you’re new to Albariño from Rías Baixas. The wine is citrusy, with green apple notes and bright nectarine flavors. A perfect pairing with a garlicky ceviche, Burgáns also shines on its own as an aperitif to enjoy on the patio with friends.
Located further inland, the Condado do Tea region is a warmer, drier area, which contributes to intense Albariño with complexity and structure. Its proximity to the Miño River and Tea River—the sub-region’s namesake—make this a gorgeous region to visit and explore.
4. Viña Nora
Aromatic and floral, Nora Albariño transports you to summery and sunny Condado do Tea. Perched on a natural terrace overlooking the Miño River, the Albariño vines at Viña Nora descend the granite slopes and ripen beautifully with lovely traces of minerality, honeysuckle, and pear. Nora pairs beautifully with spicy grilled oysters.
5. Robaliño
Herbal and citrus notes with a hint of sea salt are the backbone of Robaliño, made by the 150 family growers behind the Señorío de Rubiós winery. The crisp acidity of this wine calls for seafood paella, a quintessentially Spanish dish that combines cuttlefish, squid, mussels, clams, and cod.
6. Leira Pondal
Leira Pondal is a family-owned estate named for Pazo Pondal, a celebrated vineyard. Like many in this region, the winery trains their vines on a trellis called espaldera, anchored by granite posts. This wine boasts citrusy pear and apple notes that pair perfectly with shrimp. Try this Spiced Shrimp in Lemon-Ginger Sauce that’s Test Kitchen-approved and pour yourself a glass (or two).
7. Fillaboa
This bodega traces its origins to the 17th century, so the winery knows a thing or two about the tradition of Albariño in Rías Baixas. A crisp wine with tons of fruit, Fillaboa has big tropical vibes—notes of pineapple, mango, sea salt, and tangy citrus show off the warmth of the sub-region. The body of this wine is begging for a rich food pairing like lobster diavolo or fried chicken.
Situated along the Miño River along the Portuguese border to the Atlantic, O Rosal is a coastal and cool area with many vineyards planted on terraced hills overlooking the water. The ample sunshine in this sub-region allows for fuller wines with peachy, stone fruit flavors. Plus, the ancient Celtic fishing village of A Guarda offers a picturesque setting to enjoy Galician specialties alongside local Albariño.
8. Lagar De Cervera
A warm, rich Albariño, Lagar De Cervera delivers notes of apricot, peach, pear, and lemon peel. The wine’s fine structure makes it a perfect match for Asian-inspired rice dishes, like Dale Talde’s Grilled Scallops with XO Pineapple Fried Rice.
Our friends at D.O. Rías Baixas are responsible for some of the finest white wines in the world, focusing on the region's signature grape: Albariño. After centuries of winemaking in the region, today's producers employ careful harvesting and time-honored techniques in their cool Atlantic area to produce the highest quality wines. To learn more about Rías Baixas, visit their site.
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