Drinks

The Mystery of the Missing Cel-Ray

The vegetable soda is a cult favorite at Jewish delis. But in late 2021, it was suddenly impossible to find.

January 21, 2022
Photo by MediaNews Group/Reading Eagle via Getty Images / Contributor

In October 2021, Edith’s, a Brooklyn eatery specializing in foods of the Jewish diaspora, announced on Instagram that they were planning to hand out cans of Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray—the chartreuse celery-flavored soda that’s a staple in Jewish delis—to trick-or-treaters on Halloween. Elyssa Heller, founder and CEO of the restaurant, explained that she wanted to introduce more folks in the neighborhood to the drink. But there was a problem: As they prepared to place a large order of the soda from their distributor, Heller’s team discovered there was no Cel-Ray to be found.

Missing celery soda might not seem like a big problem in the midst of a pandemic; if you didn’t grow up frequenting such delis, especially those in the Northeast, you may have never seen Cel-Ray at all. Or perhaps you’ve reached for Dr. Brown’s black cherry or cream sodas instead, because, well, a vegetable-flavored beverage might not necessarily be anyone’s first pick. But I can say with certainty that no Jewish deli experience is complete without a can of Cel-Ray. Cloying and vegetal all at once, it cuts through bites of fatty pastrami and corned beef with every sip. When it comes to Cel-Ray, if you know, you know.

“It’s not very popular, I can tell you that. It’s the same thing with kugel; the first time I made it for friends, they were like, ‘what is this sugary pasta?’ Cel-Ray also is an acquired taste.” said Heller. “It’s a very niche item for us, but it pairs so well [with our sandwiches] because of its flavor profile. It’s not easy to get, but it has a very beloved cult following. It’s super-important that we carry it alongside other [Dr. Brown’s] sodas.”

“It’s classic,'' Jake Dell, owner of Manhattan institution Katz’s Delicatessen, said about the Dr. Brown’s soda lineup, which is always carried in the shop. “Cel-Ray in particular is how I know my regulars and die-hards. It’s not a common flavor of soda…but it totally works. It’s this great palate cleanser that really pairs well with heavier meats; but also emotionally, there’s a nostalgia factor.”

Like rye bread for sandwiches or “health salad” sold by the pint, I’ve come to consider the soda a constant at most, if not all, kosher-style delis in the tristate area. But, like Heller as I hopped into my usual spots for a sandwich and a Cel-Ray last fall, I noticed something odd. The green cans were suddenly nowhere to be found.

Join The Conversation

Top Comment:
“I don't really eat beef anymore and I don't drink soda much either BUT I agree with everyone that Cel-Ray is PERFECT with the deli of my people. I used to love Diet Cel-Ray, and haven't seen that in maybe years, and I live in New York! I have settled for Diet Black Cherry, but it's not the same. (Cream Soda is way too sweet!) Both Cel-Ray and Black Cherry have a touch of the vegetal that make them so refreshing. I'll be on the lookout for my fave now that I know it's around. Thank you for the update, the memories and the reminder too.”
— Ellen B.
Comment

Amanda Houser, a front of house employee at Frankel’s Delicatessen & Appetizing in Brooklyn, had a similar experience, noting when we spoke in early December that they hadn’t seen Cel-Ray at the store in months. “I don’t know if anyone [on staff] knows for sure why it’s not in stock, but people have come in wanting to buy it and they leave sad,” Houser said. “We’ve had people come in thinking ‘this is where it’s going to be,’ and it’s not.”

It seemed something ominous might’ve been going on. Could this be an even more niche version of the 2020 bucatini shortage? Not quite. Cel-Ray’s absence was most likely due to those pesky supply chain issues everyone’s shaking their fists about lately. “Over the last two years we’ve had trouble stocking just about every drink at the store,” said Dell. “Cel-Ray was definitely one of those, we had trouble getting it over the fall. One way or another there was an issue with production.”

I was able to briefly receive confirmation from a representative at Honickman Beverage Group, which owns Dr. Browns, that the lack of Cel Ray’s was due to supply chain complications, and it was certainly still in production. However, after rescheduling our interview several times the rep said we’d need to push off any further conversation. Just a busy person, or a key accomplice in a larger celery-flavored cover up? The world may never know.

In any event, on December 17, Houser got in touch to let me know a shipment of Cel-Ray had arrived at Frankel’s. When I spoke with Dell a week later, he also noted that the soda was once again in stock. As of early January as she prepared to open a flagship location, Ediths’s Eatery & Grocery, Heller was still having trouble getting it in. Blessedly, on January 18, just a week after their soft opening, a Cel-Ray shipment arrived.

Meanwhile, Gertie, a self-named “modern ‘Jew-ish’” eatery in Brooklyn, had a gin and Cel-Ray cocktail on their menu throughout the shortages. In 2020, the team reimagined their house drinks to pay homage to Dr. Brown’s favorites (they also have a bourbon and black cherry concoction) through a boozy-brunch lens. How did the gin and Cel-Ray remain available when the soda couldn’t be found? The answer is, of course, quite simple, and something we could all consider in the face of future supply chain mishaps. As Rachel Jackson, General Manager, explained: “We make our own in house.”

Have you tried Cel-Ray? What's your favorite food to eat with it? Let us know in the comments!

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

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Rebecca Firkser is the assigning editor at Food52. She used to wear many hats in the food media world: food writer, editor, assistant food stylist, recipe tester (sometimes in the F52 test kitchen!), recipe developer. These days, you can keep your eye out for her monthly budget recipe column, Nickel & Dine. Rebecca tests all recipes with Diamond Crystal kosher salt. Follow her on Instagram @rebeccafirkser.

11 Comments

Ellen B. April 2, 2022
I don't really eat beef anymore and I don't drink soda much either BUT I agree with everyone that Cel-Ray is PERFECT with the deli of my people. I used to love Diet Cel-Ray, and haven't seen that in maybe years, and I live in New York! I have settled for Diet Black Cherry, but it's not the same. (Cream Soda is way too sweet!) Both Cel-Ray and Black Cherry have a touch of the vegetal that make them so refreshing.

I'll be on the lookout for my fave now that I know it's around.

Thank you for the update, the memories and the reminder too.
 
mlledaffodil February 2, 2022
Not just a cel ray issue in 2021–Dr Browns Diet Black Cherry suddenly turned putrid, tasting like cream soda mixed with turpentine. Grew up with Dr Browns as our Nate N Al’s treat, switched to diet and drink daily (only vice since cutting out caffeine!)—so I know my soda. Returned several cases assuming old stock, then realized particular cannery was source. Even called Dr Browns (1 guy with a phone)— then a year or so later, bought again and it’s the good stuff again! Clearly corp is suffering some supply challenges
 
Terry January 30, 2022
I've never heard of Cel-Ray but I can find Dr. Brown's sodas at the grocery store here in the South, if one looks on the right aisle. I've also made celery-flavored ice cream so I could imagine a celery soda not being as weird as it might sound.
 
Ms T. January 30, 2022
Growing up in the 50s, my mother allowed me to drink cel-ray soda because she felt it was healthy. I'm not jewish, but cel-ray is certainly a New York thing. Canned cel-ray is not as good as the bottled (original). When I took an out-of-town friend to Sarge's (3rd Avenue off 36th Street), she plotzed when she washed down her corned beef sandwich with cel-ray. "Bliss!!!", she said. To me a cold cel-ray with a half&half pickle is Heaven On Earth.
 
H January 30, 2022
Also mia:
Hebrew National All Beef Salami.
In any size.
 
Anita O. January 30, 2022
Cel-Ray and Pastrami sandwiches are part of my childhood. One complements the other and I consider them comfort food.
 
The P. January 30, 2022
I've never tried it but I'd give it a go if I can find it. It can't be any worse of an acquired taste than, say, Moxie or Chinotto.
 
Karen V. January 24, 2022
I love Cel-Ray and grab a can or six pack whenever I see it! Goes great with everything, love the clean and unusual flavor!
 
Liz January 23, 2022
i'm having a similar problem with coconut la croix, for whatever reason, it seems only one store in my town now carries it and they don't often have it. So odd what these shortages hit
 
Tamachan January 21, 2022
So glad to read this article since it mirrors my experience(s) over the past couple of months, first at Katz's and then at the 2nd Ave Deli. You go with this expectation - a pastrami sandwich (fatty, rye, mustard) with maybe a knish or a side of kishka. Go to grab or order my soda and WTF? No Cel-Ray. Palate cleanser is exactly right and as refreshing as a crisp 7-Up. So glad to learn that is not gone forever and now wise enough to stock-up on a six-pack next time I see them.
 
Ellen B. April 2, 2022
MORE refreshing than 7UP because Cel-Ray is less sweet. Pastrami + Cel-Ray=Perfection.