I'm a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Today I read an article titled "A Better Way to Caramelize Onions". I just don't get the reasoning behind it and would never do it myself, but I'd love to hear other Picklers thoughts on it. Am I being a food snob by just sticking to the tried and true way?
http://lifehacker.com/5742230...
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The original article with his step-by-step account of caramelizing 20 pounds of onions: http://www.seriouseats.com/2011/01/the-food-lab-real-french-onion-dip-homemade-super-bowl-recipe.html
I don't like Cook's Illustrated either. Grump, grump.
As in the original post, this end product is perfect for flavoring some other medium where you want to onion completely integrated...in the original post the point of the exercise was to make onion dip (ie, mix it with mayo) or possibly soup.
This type of thing is not good if you want to see nice whole strips or chunks of browned onion for toppings or garnish or whatever.
I sometimes add sweetener (agave) to the onions when caramelizing, not to speed the process but to enhance the flavor. But I do so at the end of cooking so they don't stick to the pan.
Baking soda I have not tried because it has a distinctive flavor all its own and I just want to keep the flavor of the onions pure.
In regards to water, this method does work and I use it (sometimes using beer for added flavor). The problem with it is texture. Look at the last picture in that blog post. The onions come out as mush, or more nicely put, like onion "jam".
I find that a really easy way to caramelize onions and let them keep their structural integrity is toast them in the oven, like the crispy onions used to top mujadarra, the Middle-Eastern lentil dish. You just toss them in a little olive oil, spread on a baking sheet and bake until they are browned. You may have to stir them once or twice, but they come out delicious and slightly crisp. There is a great recipe for this in Veganomicon.
So if your recipe is something like a dip or a soup, go with the water/beer shortcut. But if you want to use your caramelized onions as a topping or a mix-in for a recipe, go with the baking method.
I like old school and the whole process of cooking (however tedious they may be sometimes) but I'm generally open to improving certain techniques, within limits.
Anything by Sandra Lee or lazy things that compromise flavors like pre-cut onions is a a no-no for me.
Kenji's (contributor at serious eats) articles tend to be pretty solid in my book.I think he works a bit with America's Test Kitchen so if Cook's Country's not your thing, I guess that wouldn't be either.
I don' t think it is a case fixing something that is broken...more improving something to make it better.
I imagine you are a fan of Cook's Country either. :-)