Make Ahead

Spinach Madeline

by:
November 13, 2017
4 Ratings
Photo by Rocky Luten
Author Notes

The recipe was first published in 1959 by the Junior League of Baton Rouge in its first community cookbook, River Road Recipes I. —Food52

Test Kitchen Notes

For the majority of my life, I was not a fan of Spinach Madeline. Every Thanksgiving, I’d gobble up the turkey, inhale marshmallow-topped sweet potatoes, and go back for seconds of my mom’s oyster dressing (what we called stuffing). But the siren song of the spicy green mixture—the dish that my mom and her four siblings annually fought for the privilege to make—eluded me.

Spinach Madeline has been a family holiday fixture for decades: it's present at Christmas, Easter, New Years, and, of course, Thanksgiving. My mom remembers sprinkling breadcrumbs over creamy green-filled trays as a little girl, graduating to preparing the entire dish solo by the time she was in middle school. It’s as ingrained in her New Orleans childhood as red beans and rice or shrimp po’boys.

But it wasn’t always a part of the menu. In fact, Spinach Madeline is a relatively young dish. The recipe was first printed in the 1950s in the Junior League of Baton Rouge’s community cookbook, River Road Cookbook. According to the group’s history, the recipe’s creator, Madeline Nevell Reymond, created the recipe by accident.

“She was a young and inexperienced cook when she decided to use up a jalapeño cheese roll that she had in her refrigerator by adding it to a spinach dish she was preparing for a ladies’ luncheon,” the league explains.

The recipe spread like wildfire throughout southern Louisiana, and someone in my family must have tasted, and then adopted, the creamy, spicy side. It’s no mystery why my Nana included Spinach Madeline on her menu. It’s affordable—with frozen spinach and, let’s face it, processed cheese—and easy to multiply. Our large family gatherings (at last count there were just under 50 of us) require at least two or three aluminum pans of the spicy side.

Another positive: It doesn’t take a culinary genius to prepare. Simply start with a butter-flour roux, onions, evaporated milk, and the liquid from the thawed, drained spinach. Once the mixture is smooth, add cubes of the spicy jalapeño cheese, before stirring in the cooked spinach. My mom swears Spinach Madeline gets better with time, and usually makes it a day or two in advance. She adds buttered breadcrumbs just before heating it up to serve.

We always eat the creamed spinach as a side, but my mom also suggested using it as a dip (à la spinach artichoke) or spread on toasty baguettes. Also, if you can't find jalapeño cheese, substitute with 4 ounces cubed Velveeta cheese and 2 minced jalapeños.

As a kid, Spinach Madeline was the combination of two things I despised: spinach and everything spicy. But my mom and her army of conspirators (my aunts and uncles) always made sure to include a small serving on my plate. It was polite to try everything the cooks had worked hard to make. Over years and years of tiny bites, I learned to accept, then love, my mom’s favorite holiday dish. In fact, this Thanksgiving, I'm hoping to make it for her, myself. —Katie Macdonald

  • Serves 5 to 6
Ingredients
  • 2 packages frozen chopped spinach
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 2 tablespoons chopped onion
  • 1/2 cup evaporated milk
  • 1/2 cup vegetable liquor (the liquid reserved from cooking the spinach)
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 3/4 teaspoon celery salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon garlic salt
  • salt to taste
  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 6 ounces jalapeño cheese, cubed
  • Red pepper to taste
  • Buttered breadcrumbs for topping
In This Recipe
Directions
  1. Cook spinach according to directions on package. Drain and reserve liquor.
  2. Melt butter in saucepan over low heat. Add flour, stirring until blended and smooth, but not brown. Add onion, and cook until soft but not brown.
  3. Add liquid slowly, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Cook until smooth and thick; continue stirring. Add seasonings and cheese, which has been cut into small pieces. Stir until melted.
  4. Combine with cooked spinach. This may be served immediately or put into a casserole and topped with buttered breadcrumbs. The flavor is improved if the latter is done and kept in the refrigerator overnight. This may also be frozen.

See what other Food52ers are saying.

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10 Reviews

Connie B. April 26, 2020
Hi!
Can I use fresh spinach instead and just steam them before starting the recipe?
 
Jan T. April 26, 2020
Of course. I’d look online to find an equivalent amount of fresh to equal a box of frozen.
 
Connie B. April 26, 2020
Great! Thank you very much!
 
MamaMyers November 16, 2018
What size package of frozen spinach?
 
Jan P. November 28, 2018
I use the standard sized boxes of frozen spinach.
 
Alice November 16, 2018
I want to make this for Thanksgiving I’ll make up the day before what’s the process for reheating ?
 
Jan P. November 16, 2018
This is a holiday tradition in my Louisiana family. I use hot Monterrey Jack cheese. Kraft hasn’t made the jalapeño cheese for eons so don’t bother looking for it.
 
Andrea Y. December 27, 2017
I made this (doubled) for Christmas dinner - it was delicious! Sometimes creamed spinach recipes can be overly mushy and filling, but this was a nice balance of spinach and creaminess. The "hot pepper cheese" I used and the red pepper flakes gave it a nice bite of spiciness. Will make again!
 
gandalf November 16, 2017
If you are using the Velveeta and minced jalapenos instead of the jalapeno cheese, do you seed the jalapenos before mincing them?

And, any thoughts on the game Saturday night? :>)
 
David F. December 22, 2018
Yuck!! Velveeta in a thick dip yes.

Never in a casserole hun.😊
Jalapeno Jack is fine. If you prefer hot spinach use jalapeno's minced.
Or a Tbls of red pepper flakes.