How to CookDessertFrench Cooking

The Cake Named after the Patron Saint of Pastry Chefs

1 Save

If you like it, save it!

Save and organize all of the stuff you love in one place.

Got it!

If you like something…

Click the heart, it's called favoriting. Favorite the stuff you like.

Got it!

In honor of France Week—our exploration into dressed-down French cuisine—Ghaya Oliveira, of the fancy New York restaurant Daniel—has provided us with a simplified, home-friendly recipe for this iconic French dessert.

Working at a French restaurant in New York City, we are always balancing a respect for tradition with a constant desire to innovate and evolve. In the pastry kitchen, one way that we do this is to revisit the most celebrated desserts in history—from tiramisu to sachertorte—and to reinterpret them through a contemporary lens.

Advertisement
How to Make Tiramisu Without a Recipe

How to Make Tiramisu Without a Recipe by Emiko

+
How to Make Viennese Sachertorte

How to Make Viennese Sachertorte by Yossy Arefi

+

Each month we revisit a new classic, and most recently, we chose the Saint-Honoré. The story of the dessert dates back to the 1850s or 60s in Paris, at the Chiboust pâtisserie on Rue Saint-Honoré. The young pastry chef, Auguste Julien, created a new sweet comprised of a base of pâte sablée with a ring of pâte à choux piped on the outer edge. Small cream puffs dipped in caramelized sugar adorned the ring, while the center of the cake was filled with a beautifully piped crème chiboust (a pastry cream lightened with stiffly beaten egg whites) .

It would be hard to imagine a more French dessert. To start, pâte à choux is the base of so many regional favorites, from the Paris Brest to the Religieuse, and of course, the Croque-en-Bouche. Creams and custards are also an essential part of the French pastry tradition, with endless variations on stiffness and weight. (Of course, the celebrated quality of French butter and dairy products is also an essential part of why our pastries have become so famous.)

Photo by Mira Lee Patel

Today, the original bakery where the Saint-Honoré was created no longer exists, but the story is a reminder that pastry, like wine, has a sense of terroir. Each of the iconic desserts we know and love originate from a specific time and place. While we may reinvent these dishes—as in our case, with the unexpected flavors of voatsiperifery pepper and a port reduction—ultimately, we are indebted to these classics and the chefs who created them.

Advertisement
05168b9f 2b74 4f3b 8613 dadbe0447876  sainthonore ghaya may 2017 1

Strawberry St. Honoré

7cca392b ad7c 4a78 87e9 dd18f2bac9cc  rd boh2017 rickobrien17 Ghaya Oliveira
13 Save Go To Recipe
Makes 6

Pâte à Choux and Strawberry Compote

  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
  • Pinch of salt and sugar
  • 2 drops red food coloring, optional
  • 3/4 cup plus 1/2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 pound fresh strawberries, washed, trimmed, quartered
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/2 cup water

For the Sablé Breton and Crème Fraiche Chantilly

  • 4 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon powdered sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/8 cups flour
  • 3 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 1 Tahitian vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped
  • 1 hard-boiled egg yolk
  • 3/4 cup butter
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup crème fraiche (or substitute sour cream)
  • 1 tablespoon confectioner’s sugar
Go to Recipe
Show More

For more on French food (sans white tablecloth), head here.