Growing up along the Gulf, seafood was a year-round affair—flaky, buttery filets weren't relegated to warmer months. Access to the ocean (and mild winters) allow lucky coastal Southerners hearty gumbos and fried catfish, even in February. And even as the temperatures drop here in New York, I maintain a proud insistence on a fish habit that refuses to quit.
Seafood can also be a hearty fall main. Rethink light, lemony crudos and opt instead for more substantial fare. Shrimp takes well to rice in fragrant biryani, creamy broth marries clams and sausage, and simple filets complement bolder flavors. Fish doesn't have to be synonymous with sunbeams and summer breezes. Instead, invite fish into fall with herbs and broths and bakes that steam and sizzle.