Can You Butterize a Margarine Recipe?

March  7, 2018

We have Napoleon to thank for margarine. If you’re a fan of our podcast, Burnt Toast, you probably knew that already. (Oh, since you mentioned it, Burnt Toast is back in action tomorrow, yay!) In the mid-1900s, about a century after its invention, margarine became particularly popular when it was championed for its low cholesterol. Which means, we now have a whole generation of wrinkled and ripped, stained and yellowing family recipe cards—you know, the best ones—that call for the ingredient.

Our contributing writer and editor Lindsay-Jean Hard couldn’t help but wonder: Can you just use butter instead? While margarine is still alive and kicking—especially for vegan, plant-based recipes—most contemporary bakers prefer butter.

I asked my grandmother if she used margarine back in the day: “Oh, yeah!” she replied. But when I flipped through her recipe box, there weren’t that many margarine recipes. A brownie here, another brownie there. Most of the time, when margarine appeared, it was marked as optional: butter or margarine, as if the two are interchangeable. Are they, though?

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This question is as old as, well, margarine. Our community chatted about it on our hotline years ago. Erikal replied as such:

Yes, there's a significant diff—I use margarine when making baked goods for a friend who cannot have whey or casein, so have to use vegan margarine, to boot. Cookies are softer—I haven't figured out how to get chewiness with margarine batters. They also don't develop a crispy top/crust, and they don't brown as well. Brownies and other bar cookies suffer, too, though less noticeably. Again, it's a textural diff. And all baked goods taste "flat" when compared to those made with butter, because margarine itself has a very flat and not a "rounded" flavor. I would never choose to use margarine for anything but sometimes, ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

To test this, I made one cake recipe—once with butter, again with margarine—and a cookie recipe—once with butter, again with margarine. In both cases, I did a one-to-one substitution, as most sources recommend.

Photo by Emma Laperruque

Pound cake

This particular recipe, created by the Imperial margarine brand, was a hit in the 1960s and ’70s. A few years back, one reader requested it in The St. Louis Dispatch and 15 readers shared the same recipe. The link has since died, but I found a doppelgänger over at Genius Kitchen. It’s an old-school pound cake in that there’s no commercial leavener, just eggs. Also, the sugar is all powdered, which includes cornstarch, which helps create a tender crumb. Were the two cakes identical twins? Not quite.

  • The original, with margarine, was pale on top, with a dense, moist crumb. “I can see how pound cake traditionalists might prefer marg!” one taste tester noted. Several also commented that this cake was slightly saltier. (Margarine contains salt whereas unsalted butter contains, well, none.)
  • The butter-fied version was more colorful on top, with a slightly lighter, fluffier, drier interior. “I like the crust!” one person said. “Better texture, more springy, nice buttery flavor,” another said. Indeed, if you’re going for a buttery pound cake, you probably should use butter!
Photo by Emma Laperruque

Chocolate chip cookies

Betty Crocker’s original chocolate chip cookies from 1969 call for margarine and shortening. Today, her Ultimate Chocolate Chip Cookies call for “butter or margarine.” Same difference, Betty says? Well, sort of.

  • The butter-based cookies are crispier, with sturdy edges and a distinct chew. “Somehow this tastes fruitier and almost floral to me? Like blueberry!” one taste tester said. “Deciding now that it’s probably the cream/milk fat of the butter.” Another was also wooed: “Lovely crispness—if you're into that—and superior flavor. Nice caramelization and brown sugar shines.” Butter in the bag, right? Well...
  • Meanwhile, some editors were all about the tender chewiness of the margarine batch. We agreed that they reminded us of a childhood bakery, though we couldn’t place where or when. If you’ve ever been in a supermarket and scored a free cookie, these will bring you back there. “I'm really down with this chewy texture!” one said. “But flavor lacks compared with butter.”

Do you ever substitute margarine for butter, or vice versa? Tell us about the recipe in the comments below!

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Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles on the fly, baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., and writing about the history of pie in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's award-winning column, Big Little Recipes (also the cookbook in October 2021!). And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.


Hannah May 23, 2021
My grandmother was sold on the idea margarine was better for your health than butter, so used it in her cooking and baking. Then she started working a lot more (as a nurse of the 1950s, she was always needed) and my mom took over the kitchen with butter, butter, butter. I’m glad because that meant I grew up with butter in everything. Then we discovered the fruity taste of kalamata olive oil, which is excellent in a lot of desserts, and peanut oil is actually really good in a PB cookie. Experimenting can be fun.
Pfreemanlynde May 21, 2021
My mother made a lot of cookies. She usually used one stick of butter and one stick of margarine. I don't use margarine (or Crisco, which she used for pie crust) and generally substitute all butter, but it's not quite the same. I'm still experimenting with her recipes to get the perfect balance.
samanthaalison March 9, 2018
I don't use margarine, but I have a cookie recipe of my grandmother's that calls for it. I tried butter and they came out good, but not like hers. But then I tried refined coconut oil, and that was pretty dang close!
HalfPint March 8, 2018
I haven't used margarine in many years because I was seduced by the flavor of butter and never looked back ;)
HOWEVER, I prefer the texture of margarine/oil cakes. I love a light, fluffy cake and butter cakes are bit too firm and almost too 'dry' for me (though admittedly, I love butter pound cakes too). I grew up on Vietnamese sponge cake (banh bong lan) which doesn't use butter. My older sisters use to make it with margarine if I recall from the recipe on the pink Alsa baking powder pouch. Ahhh memories...
juwu_eats March 8, 2018
Growing up in Brazil, we always used margarine for everything. Butter was an expensive and non practical alternative, but the bakery would always make the best buttery baguette toasts.
On most cake recipes back then, it called for margarine or butter, and a lot of recipes used oil instead. I grew up with those butter-less cakes.
Then I moved to Europe. It all changed... when you're not used to the butter taste in the cake, in addition of the use of a different type of sugar (Brazil uses 100% sugar cane)... man! I could really taste the difference!
Author Comment
Emma L. March 8, 2018
I love oil-based cakes! Thanks for sharing this, jwu.