Cocktail

The Citrusy Ingredient We’re Adding to Our Cocktails

March  9, 2018

You know simple syrup. Or at least, you two have crossed paths. This 1:1 ratio of sugar to water—hot, so the sugar dissolves almost instantly—is as much a staple in cocktail bars as booze. Just a few examples:

Still, as much as bartenders adore it, there’s one thing that bugs me about simple syrup: It’s simply, well, sweet. Which is to say, all it offers is sweetness—no pucker, tang, or punch. When cocktail recipes have only a few ingredients (like when I make them at home), I want each one to do a lot of work. Take carrot juice: liquid bulk to stretch the alcohol; tamed, vegetal sweetness; gorgeous color.

Of course, you can customize simple syrup, make it lemony or limey or both. But what if there were a more to-the-point way to infuse flavor? And what if we wanted that flavor even more concentrated and vibrant? Meet simple syrup’s lesser known, big-personality cousin: oleo-saccharum.

Cocktail time! Photo by Julia Gartland

It sounds like a spell from Harry Potter, which we shall call bonus points, yes? Instead of combining the sugar with water, here you combine it with fresh citrus peels. Use a muddler or wooden spoon to mash the two into oblivion, then move on with your life. Maybe every so often you pass the mixture by and give it a smush here, smash there. Maybe not. A few hours later, the sugar will have lured out all the citrus oils, yielding a thick, practically neon syrup, like olive oil glowing in the dark. You can use oranges or grapefruits, lemons or limes, really any citrus that happens to be nearby. I like a mix.

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Put this in any citrusy-sweet cocktails, from whisky sours to palomas, adding bit by bit to taste since it’s so intense. In my kitchen, I’m putting it toward a lot more than that: lemony olive oil dressings that want a little oomph, even drizzled on Greek yogurt or ice cream.

Have you ever tried oleo-saccharum before? Tell us in the comments below!

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • Kris Fielding
    Kris Fielding
  • FrugalCat
    FrugalCat
  • Valhalla
    Valhalla
  • Emma Laperruque
    Emma Laperruque
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing articles about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.

5 Comments

Kris F. July 7, 2020
on my second batch of limoncello using oleo saccharum. After making it, i then infuse the vodka with the spent on peels for a bit.
 
FrugalCat February 18, 2019
The first time I heard about this stuff, I thought it was a margarine (my grandmother always called margarine oleo) and Sweet N Low ( saccharine) mixture.
 
Valhalla March 9, 2018
I save all of my organic citrus peels in the freezer. Is there a problem with making oleo-saccharum with frozen peels? I was worried about the water content upon thawing.
 
Author Comment
Emma L. March 9, 2018
Hi Valhalla, I haven't tried that myself, but the ice/water buildup from the freezer might pose a problem. Maybe give it a go with a smaller batch?
 
Valhalla March 9, 2018
I'll report back when I get around to it, thanks!