Pie

The Flakiest Cherry Crostatas Are Also the Cheesiest (Wait, What?)

September 20, 2018

Fruit crostatas don’t have to be sweet. They can be salty. They can be savory. They can be cheesy.

This isn’t a big leap to make. There’s a reason we add dried figs or apricot jam to cheese plates. Or sliced peaches or apples to a grilled cheese. Salty and sweet, creamy and juicy, funky and fresh—they all attract in the way that only opposites know how.

The crostata could, in theory, use any cheese. But I couldn’t stop thinking about blue. Its unapologetically tangy flavor, its eagerness to melt and bubble in a hot oven. I prefer to buy a wedge—versus crumbled—because it’s less dried-out, usually better quality, and you avoid any questionable caking agents that could cause problems (like the cheese breaking or separating) in the oven.

Photo by Julia Gartland

It could, in theory, use any fruit, too. If you ask me, a blue cheese crostata is the best way to show off end-of-summer fruit. If it’s overheated and not in the best shape, who will know? Between gooey cheese and a flaky crust, no one will notice or care.

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I went with cherries, but you could adjust the recipe to use anything. Maybe it’s apricots or peaches or the first of this year’s apples. If the fruit is extra juicy, you might want to increase the cornstarch by a teaspoon or two. If it’s extra sweet, maybe you drop the sugar a pinch. This isn’t a science, but don’t say I said that.

For the crust, I decided to add more cheese and make a rugelach—a Jewish, cream cheese–based dough. Think of it as the most foolproof pie dough you’ll ever make. As Sarah Jampel explains, “the fat and milk solids in the cream cheese inhibit gluten formation (and provide a flavor that makes the crust tasty enough to eat bare).”


NO CHEESE HERE (PROBABLY A GOOD THING)

To add another depth of flavor—a nutty something-something to offset the cheese and fruit—I used half whole-wheat and half all-purpose flour. You could use rye instead of whole-wheat or just go with all–all purpose, if you want.

But that’s sort of the theme of these, right? They’re a template. Flaky crust, sharp cheese, sweet fruit. You can’t go wrong from there.

What fruit do you think would pair best with blue cheese? Tell us in the comments!

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Emma was the food editor at Food52. She created the award-winning column, Big Little Recipes, and turned it into a cookbook in 2021. These days, she's a senior editor at Bon Appétit, leading digital cooking coverage. Say hello on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.

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