Inver, a small restaurant tucked away in a village on the banks of a Scottish loch (that’s a lake, for you visitors), opened a few years ago to much praise: British restaurant critic Marina O’Loughlin simply wrote, “Go. Go by car or boat or bloody helicopter.”
I was worried for chef Pam Brunton and her partner Rob Latimer (who does front of house) because of the remoteness of the place. But those hungry for good and interesting things to eat have worked out how to get there and where to stay nearby. Most make a trip out of eating here, coming for dinner, staying the night, and having lunch the next day.
Brunton has been most influenced by stints at the Scandinavian restaurants Noma and Fäviken, and has applied a New Nordic approach to Scottish ingredients. There’s halibut with cockles, coastal greens and smoky mussel butter, burnt grain dumplings with wild mushrooms, creamed corn and egg yolk, chamomile rice pudding with raspberries. A little bit Nordic, but fundamentally Scottish.