A Big Little Recipe has the smallest-possible ingredient list and big everything else: flavor, creativity, wow factor. Psst—we don't count water, salt, black pepper, and certain fats (specifically, 1/2 cup or less of olive oil, vegetable oil, and butter), since we're guessing you have those covered. This week is an ode to asparagus.
Asparagus is the chameleon of springtime. It’s happy to be blitzed into a creamy pesto. Or shaved and tossed with everything green. Or even turned into a savory pancake.
But to me, the best thing to do with asparagus is not much at all.
Though boiling may not be cool, it is the surest way to express a vegetable’s true vegetable-iness (second only to leaving it raw). With its tall, lanky build, asparagus needs just a few minutes in hot water to go from crunchy to crisp-tender—from green to greenest.
Add a drizzle of olive oil and pinch of flaky salt and you have the perfect side. But, at least once in its short season, asparagus deserves to be more than a side. It deserves to be dinner, period.
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Top Comment:
“While the recipe looks great, I have a severe allergy to hot peppers so would have to omit the Calabrian pepper paste. Is there a spice of some kind that does not contain capsaicin that would ramp up the flavor? I run into this all the time as it seems so many recipes contain heat that did not in the past. ”
All we need is a supporting cast, to round out the meal without outshining our star. That’s where these four ingredients come in: anchovies, bread crumbs, eggs, and Calabrian chiles.
If you’re raising your eyebrows at anchovies, you won’t even know they’re there. At the same time, you'd miss them if they weren't. Minced-beyond-recognition anchovies make many things better, but especially olive oil–fried bread crumbs. Thanks to their magic ingredient, the crumbs have a salty, umami complexity that evokes the thrifty Italian trick of using bread crumbs instead of grated cheese.
The eggs are soft-boiled, with just-set whites and jammy yolks. You could slice them in half and neatly place them atop the asparagus. But I much prefer to add the eggs whole, then smash them with my fork into haphazard pieces (a technique I learned from Smitten Kitchen). Instead of staying in one place, the yolk "sauce" gets everywhere, which is exactly where we want it. A little Calabrian chile paste, randomly dabbed onto the egg bits and bobs, goes a long way. It’s spicy, sure, but it also adds brightness and acidity and perks up the entire dish.
This could serve up to four, if you have other components at the table—maybe soup or salad or both. But my husband and I ate up the two pounds of asparagus with forks and steak knives, leaving only a handful of crumbs behind. We saved them in a container and finished them the next day. On more asparagus, of course.
tablespoons kosher salt, plus flaky salt for serving
2
thick slices rustic bread (about 150 grams)
3
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1
(2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, drained and minced
4
large eggs
2
pounds asparagus, ends trimmed
1
teaspoon crushed Calabrian chile paste, plus more to taste
6
quarts water
6
tablespoons kosher salt, plus flaky salt for serving
2
thick slices rustic bread (about 150 grams)
3
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1
(2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, drained and minced
4
large eggs
2
pounds asparagus, ends trimmed
1
teaspoon crushed Calabrian chile paste, plus more to taste
Bonus Big Little Recipe
If you’re a Big Little fan, maybe you’re wondering: Where’s this week’s video? We’re taking a quick hiatus—yep, just like a TV show—to cook up the next season of episodes, premiering May 28. They’re gonna be bigger (and littler) and better than ever. Stay tuned!
Put down those long grocery lists. Inspired by the award-winning column, our Big Little Recipes cookbook is minimalism at its best: few ingredients, tons of flavor.
Emma was the food editor at Food52. She created the award-winning column, Big Little Recipes, and turned it into a cookbook in 2021. These days, she's a senior editor at Bon Appétit, leading digital cooking coverage. Say hello on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.
While the recipe looks great, I have a severe allergy to hot peppers so would have to omit the Calabrian pepper paste. Is there a spice of some kind that does not contain capsaicin that would ramp up the flavor? I run into this all the time as it seems so many recipes contain heat that did not in the past.
Hi! Feel free to omit the Calabrian chiles—it's still a great dish without them. If you want a little added acidity, you could do a squeeze of lemon on top. Another thought: mixing some minced garlic into the anchovy bread crumbs.
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